Vitamin C is one of the most sensitive cosmetic active ingredients. To avoid its degradation, its encapsulation into biobased carriers such as dendrimers is one alternative of interest. In this work, we wanted to evaluate the potential of two biobased glycerodendrimer families (GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(AmidoAmine) (GD-PAMAMs) or GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(Propylene Imine) (GD-PPIs)) as a vitamin C carrier for topical application. The higher encapsulation capacity of GD-PAMAM-3 compared to commercial PAMAM-3 and different GD-PPIs, and its absence of cytotoxicity towards dermal cells, make it a good candidate. Investigation of its mechanism of action was done by using two kinds of biomimetic models of stratum corneum (SC), lipid monolayers and liposomes. GD-PAMAM-3 and VitC@GD-PAMAM-3 (GD-PAMAM-3 with encapsulated vitamin C) can both interact with the lipid representatives of the SC lipid matrix, whichever pH is considered. However, only pH 5.0 is suggested to be favorable to release vitamin C into the SC matrix. Their binding to SC-biomimetic liposomes revealed only a slight effect on membrane permeability in accordance with the absence of cytotoxicity but an increase in membrane rigidity, suggesting a reinforcement of the SC barrier property. Globally, our results suggest that the dendrimer GD-PAMAM-3 could be an efficient carrier for cosmetic applications.
For this study, new dendrimers were prepared from poly(propylene imine) (PPI) and polyamidoamine (PAMAM) dendrimers using an efficient acid-base reaction with various phenolic acids. The syntheses were also optimized in both microwave and microfluidic reactors. These ionic and hydrophilic dendrimers were fully characterized and showed excellent antioxidant properties. Their cytotoxic properties have been also determined in the case of fibroblast dermal cells.
Dendrimers are increasingly being studied in the context of encapsulation. Many potential applications of dendrimers are based on their properties. They are used in drug delivery systems, cosmetics, food and chemistry. This review is first devoted to different synthesis approaches for dendrimers and to their ability to encapsulate active molecules. Their applications in different fields, as well as their cytotoxicity, are then detailed. To conclude this review, the main works on the interaction of dendrimers with the stratum corneum (SC) are also presented.
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