In this study, wool fibre samples were mordanted by means of 25% alum mordant solution. The mordanted wool samples were dyed in 50%Reseda luteola L. (weld), 20%Rhamnus petiolaris Boiss (buckthorn) and 50%Datisca cannabina L. (bastard hemp) dyebaths. A reverse‐phase high‐performance liquid chromatography with diode‐array detection method was utilised for the identification of dyes in the dyed wool samples and the plant extracts. The extraction of dyes was carried out with a hydrogen chloride/methanol/water (2:1:1; v/v/v) mixture.

Silk fabric samples were dyed according to the various procedures using madder (Rubia tinctorium L.) and walloon oak (Quercus ithaburensis Decaisne) extracts. The colour coordinates, K/S, as well as wash, light, rub and perspiration fastness values were determined. A reversed‐phase high‐performance liquid chromatography with diode‐array detection was utilised for the identification of the components of dyes present in the dyed fabrics and in the plant extracts.

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