Ao longo dos últimos anos, as fórmulas cosméticas têm evoluído consideravelmente, tornando os produtos para maquiagem excelentes coadjuvantes para tratar e proteger a pele e seus anexos. Sabe-se que o uso de fotoprotetores de amplo espectro de absorção ultravioleta é essencial na prevenção de neoplasias cutâneas, principalmente de áreas que sofrem exposição diária ao sol, incluindo os lábios. Desta forma, este trabalho tem como objetivo o desenvolvimento de uma formulação de batom de diferentes cores (marrom, vermelho, rosa e roxo), com propriedades que visam não só promover emoliência, hidratação e coloração aos lábios, mas também oferecer proteção contra os raios ultravioletas (UV). Os resultados obtidos indicam que os valores de FPS (Fator de Proteção Solar) das amostras de batons permaneceram na categoria de alta proteção, com capacidade de manter a retenção de água na pele, fácil espalhamento sobre o lábio, dureza condizente com o tipo de produto e baixa possibilidade de deterioração oxidativa. Desta forma, os batons desenvolvidos apresentam características comerciais desejáveis de hidratação, coloração e emoliência, além de alta fotoproteção, podendo atuar na prevenção de câncer labial.
The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate a corrective and photoprotective makeup for patients with dyschromias. An emulsion was prepared and pigment mixtures were incorporated in the formulation, producing five shades of corrective makeup: BEIGE (I, II, III), BRONZE and TAN. The sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA/UVB ratio of the corrective makeup were determined using spectrophotometry with a Labsphere ® analyser. The spreadability, occlusivity, stability, and photostability of the photoprotective formulations were also evaluated. For all formulations there was no statistical difference among them (p > 0.05) in terms of spreadability, occlusivity and SPF. They were considered to be photostable under solar radiation, with variations in SPF value and UVA/UVB ratio lower than 20%. The corrective makeup presented average-to-high UVB photoprotection and broad spectrum photoprotection. After 90 days, pH, density and SPF values showed no significant differences among formulations (p>0.05). All corrective makeup presented separation of the pigments, however, they returned to a homogeneous aspect and to the original color shade after shaking. The corrective makeup presented a fine texture, little brightness, and a homogeneous, dry-to-the-touch aspect. This work may benefit patients with dyschromias, improving their quality of life, besides promoting photoprotection and covering the skin blemishes.
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