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Abstract. Buriti (Mauritia flexuosa Mart.) is the most common and abundant palm tree in the Brazilian territory and it is present throughout South America. It is known as the "Tree of Life", because everything in it can be used and many residents of rural communities have this palm tree as their main source of income. In different Brazilian states, the fibers removed from young leaves of the Buriti palm tree are employed in the manufacturing of handicraft, being this fiber popularly known as "flax or silk" of buriti. In order to apply the "flax or silk" of buriti in new products, it is necessary to study their physiochemical characteristics, as well as to monitor the handling of the palm tree, the extraction process of the fiber and its application in handmade products. The buriti fiber analyzed in this study is from the Brazilian Cerrado biome, more specifically from the town of Barreirinhas (Maranhão State). The fibers were tested in order to determine tensile rupture strength, tenacity, elongation, Young's modulus, cross microscopic structure and regain. In order to carry out the tests, the fibers were separated in 5 groups: 1) in natura fibers, 2) fibers boiled by the origin community, 3) fibers boiled in bleach, 4) fibers boiled in softener, and 5) fibers boiled in lemon juice, being the processing of last three groups done in the city of São Paulo. The group used for cross and longitudinal microscopy was in natura fibers. The groups of fibers referred were also maintained in water at 37°C for 21 days to determine its reaction and resistance to weather and were analyzed every 3 days. The results of tenacity, elongation and Young´s modulus for each group were respectively: 1) 28.4±5.6 cN/tex (CV=20%), 8.3±0.6% (CV=7%), 6.1±0.8 N/tex (CV=13%); 2) 31.0±7.7 cN/tex (CV=25%), 8.4±0.8% (CV=9%), 7.2±0.7 N/tex (CV=10%); 3) 27.6±7.2 cN/tex (CV=26%), 7.9±0.6% (CV=7%), 6.0±1.2 N/tex (CV=20%); 4) 22.1±8.8 cN/tex (CV=40%), 8.6±1.9% (CV=22%), 5.0±1.0 N/tex (CV=20%); 5) 29.7±6.5 cN/tex (CV=22%), 8.6±0.6% (CV=7%), 5.8±0.8 N/tex (CV=13%). Through this study it could be possible to expand knowledge regarding the potential of the Brazilian biodiversity, presenting applications for the buriti fiber in the development of new products to be employed in design and industry as well as collaborating in the construction of social benefits by encouraging the recovery and strengthening of local cultural identity, community organization around solidarity economy and consequent generation of income for fibers extractive communities.

The present study discusses the use of textiles in the contemporary production of jewelry in Brazil, highlighting the application of natural fibers. Manual weaving of natural fibers is closely linked to traditional handicraft just as metallic interlacing is used in jewelry production since antiquity. Bibliographical and scientific literature review were carried out as well as consulting collections of Brazilian creators, artists and designers, currently working with jewelry and employing natural fibers. Reflecting on the use of natural fibers in the Brazilian contemporary jewelry, this study has as its reference, in order to make a broad discussion, the work of artists and designers from different regions of the country, whose expression is different regarding natural material available and applied on the works and the productive techniques originated in regional traditions. Considering the search for innovation in the use of materials, it can be observed an intense renewal in Brazilian jewelry, which is impregnated by both unusual natural elements and traditional values of the culture of the country.

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