Aim: To enhance the tretinoin (TRE) safety profile through the encapsulation in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC). Materials & methods: NLC-TRE was developed using a 23 experimental factorial design, characterized (HPLC, dynamic light scattering, differential scanning calorimetry, x-ray diffraction analysis, transmission electron microscopy, cryo-transmission electron microscopy) and evaluated by in vitro studies and in healthy volunteers. Results: The NLC-TRE presented spherical structures, average particle size of 130 nm, zeta potential of 24 mV and encapsulation efficiency of 98%. The NLC-TRE protected TRE against oxidation (p < 0.0001) and promoted epidermal targeting (p < 0.0001) compared with the marketed product, both 0.05% TRE. The in vitro assay on reconstructed human epidermis and the measurement of transepidermal water loss in healthy volunteers demonstrated an enhanced safety profile in comparison to the marketed product (p < 0.0002). Conclusion: The NLC-TRE enhances the epidermal targeting and safety profile of TRE, representing a potential safer alternative for the topical treatment of skin disorders using TRE.

The skin, the largest organ of the body, is an attractive route of topical and systemic drug administration. During the development of topical formulations, in vitro skin permeation studies using biological membranes mounted in Franz diffusion cells are a useful tool to assess the permeation of substances through the skin, and are recommended by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD). Among the types of biological membranes used in such studies, porcine ear skin has been identified as the most promising, due to its similarities to human skin and its greater accessibility as compared to human skin. To standardize techniques for the preparation and use of porcine ear skin as biological membrane, here we present systematic procedures for the selection of porcine ears, their cleaning, the removal of skin from cartilage, its transformation into membranes, and its use for the in vitro assessment of the permeation of drugs from topical formulations. © 2022 Wiley Periodicals LLC. Basic Protocol 1: Obtaining porcine ear membranes Basic Protocol 2: Preparation of membranes from porcine ear skin and use of membranes for in vitro skin permeation studies