A fully nonlinear, diffusive, and weakly dispersive wave
equation is derived for
describing gravity surface wave propagation in a shallow porous
medium. Darcy's flow
is assumed in a homogeneous and isotropic porous medium. In deriving the
general
equation, the depth of the porous medium is assumed to be small in comparison
with the horizontal length scale, i.e. O(μ2)
=O(h0/L)2[Lt ]1.
The order of magnitude
of accuracy of the general equation is O(μ4).
Simplified governing equations are also
obtained for the situation where the magnitude of the free-surface fluctuations
is
also small,
O(ε)=O(a/h0)[Lt ]1,
and is of the same order of magnitude as O(μ2).
The resulting equation is of O(μ4, ε2)
and is equivalent to the Boussinesq equations
for water waves. Because of the dissipative nature of the porous medium
flow, the
damping rate of the surface wave is of the same order magnitude as the
wavenumber.
The tide-induced groundwater fluctuations are investigated by
using the newly derived
equation. Perturbation solutions as well as numerical solutions are obtained.
These
solutions compare very well with experimental data. The interactions between
a
solitary wave and a rectangular porous breakwater are then examined by
solving the
Boussinesq equations and the newly derived equations together. Numerical
solutions
for transmitted waves for different porous breakwaters are obtained and
compared
with experimental data. Excellent agreement is observed.
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