In rhis paper, the authors examine the relationship between the sewability and the structural, physical, and FAST characteristics of wool and wool-blend woven fabrics. Forty wool and wool-btend woven fabrics were studied, and, in particular, tbe influence ofthe sewing-needle type and diameter was examined. Multiple-regression techniques were used to identify the relationships between these variables and sewability.

No abstract

The interest around the additive manufacturing is increasing, with more and more solutions at both the industrial and desktop levels. As this is still a relatively recent issue for several industrial areas, there is a clear opportunity to explore in order to optimize the systems in the face of the needs of these same industries, and with increasing times, there are increasing factors to take into ac- count in initial phases of new product development. Presently, there is also a growing ecological awareness, with the concern of implementing a logic of waste reduction and implementation of the circular economy in new products with a view to the valuation of new alternative materials. With the development of solutions aimed at the optimization and feasibility of large additive manufacturing systems, the introduction of new alternative materials will be a reality, presenting in this article a solution and methodology for future tests for new materials. Thus, herein is studied a way of responding to both problems, new ecological materials and BAAM system optimization, presented through a hybrid and flexible solution based on the Pin Bed Forming principle applied to Big Area Additive Manufacturing systems.

Plans a wear simulation of assembled textile structures by sewing, basing the study on the submission of standardized seams carried out on 40 wool fabrics and blends containing wool to a series of 20 cycles of fatigue, including: washing, drying and submission to a static mechanical load under determined characteristics and steam ironing. Seams in the warp and weft directions were performed on. Examines the following parameters: fabric strength and elongation to break; seam strength and slippage; seam efficiency; seams’ opening limit and both the modulus at 1mm and at break, along the fatigue cycles. Analyses results obtained in function of the seam directions and fatigue cycles.

Using six fabrics which are very different in structure and composition, comparisons have been made between British, French and American standards, and between IWS and Renault methods for seaming properties determination. According to measuring principles they could be classified into two groups. The calculated correlations within groups were acceptable, while correlations between groups were low. The Renault method is situated between the two groups, because one parameter given by this method showed a good correlation with the British standard, while the other had a good correlation with the French standard.