In view of the increase in the number of cosmetic preparations containing antioxidant vitamins, chiefly, due to their action in preventing the process of skin aging, there is a need to develop pre-formulation studies and to validate analytical methods in order to obtain high quality products. Thus, the objective of this research was to evaluate and compare the thermal behavior of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate as raw materials, and incorporated into a base cream. Thermogravimetry (TG / DTG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were used for this purpose. Both vitamins were found to be stable up to 250ºC. The base cream (placebo) and the sample (base cream containing the vitamins) presented different weight loss. Thermal analysis has shown itself to be an excellent tool for the characterization of these vitamins and can be used in routine analysis for quality control of this type of cosmetic formulation.Uniterms: Thermal analysis. Cosmetic emulsion/qualitative analysis. Cosmetics/quality control. Tocopheryl acetate/antioxidant action. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate/antioxidant action. Vitamins/use in cosmetics.Considerando o potencial antioxidante das vitaminas utilizadas em produtos cosméticos, seu uso na prevenção do processo de envelhecimento da pele e a necessidade de estudos de pré-formulação que garantam o desenvolvimento de cosméticos de qualidade, foi objetivo deste trabalho avaliar e comparar o comportamento térmico dos ativos acetato de tocoferila e tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila, matérias-primas, isoladamente e incorporados em creme base. As técnicas termogravimetria/termogravimetria derivada (TG/DTG) e calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC) foram utilizadas para tal finalidade. Verificou-se que as vitaminas mantiveram-se estáveis até a temperatura de, aproximadamente, 250 ºC, observando-se diferença na perda de massa entre o creme base e o creme base associado às vitaminas. Assim sendo, a análise térmica mostrou-se como excelente ferramenta para caracterização das vitaminas e do creme base, podendo ser empregada em análises de rotina no controle de qualidade deste tipo de formulação cosmética.Unitermos: Análise térmica. Emulsão cosmética/análise qualitativa. Cosméticos/controle de qualidade. Acetato de tocoferila/potencial antioxidante. Tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila/ potencial antioxidante. Vitaminas/uso em cosméticos.

A rapid HPLC method was developed for the assay of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations. The validated method was applied for quantitative determination of these vitamins in simulated emulsion formulation. Samples were analysed directly on a RP-18 reverse phase column with UV detection at 222 nm. A mixture of methanol and isopropanol (25 : 75 v/v) was used as mobile phase. The retention time of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate were 3.0 min and 5.9 min, respectively. Recovery was between 95% and 104%. In addition, the excipients did not interfere in the analysis. The method is simple, reproducible, selective and is suitable for routine analyses of commercial products.

The development of facile and rapid quantification of biologically active biomolecules such as isotretitoin in therapeutic drugs contained in many generic formu- lations is necessary for determining their efficiency and their quality to improve the human health care. Isotretritoin finds its applications in the maintenance of epithelial tissues. Different processes to date such as normal phase HPLC, or gas chromatrography am- ong others are able to separate and quantify isote- troin. However, the extraction is quite complex and in the case of HPLC, the analysis requires long retention times. In such context, an isocratic reversed- phase high-performance liquid chromatography (HP- LC) technique coupled with an UV-vis detector is described here for easy separation and quantification of 13-cis-retinoic (isotretinoin) from soft gelatin capsule formulations. The isotretinoin was extracted from three different commercial drug samples with tetrahydrofuran (THF) solvent by a procedure that can be completed in less than 10 minutes. Subsequent separation and quantification were accomplished in less than 5 minutes under isocratic reversed-phase conditions on a Lichrospher RP18 column and a mobile phase consisting of 0.01% TFA/acetonitrile (15/85, v/v) at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min. Isotretoin was detected for the three samples via its UV-vis absorbance at 342 nm. The method was validated and the results showed good linearity, precision and accuracy for sensitive and selective quantitative determination of isotretinoin in the different pharmaceutical formulations. We found that the average isotretinoin content in two of the three commercial pro- ducts fell outside the 90-110% United States Pha- rmacopeia specifications. Consequently, the facile extraction and the precise method for the biomole- cule quantification open up tremendous possibilities in improving the quality control of drugs which can exist as different generic brands

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