In the last decade antioxidants from a group of polyphenols have been proposed as one of the most effective functional ingredients of anti-ageing properties that counteract the effects of oxidative damage to the skin. It has been shown that the use of polyphenols affects skin protection and mitigates inflammatory conditions of the skin. Numerous studies have confirmed that polyphenols by neutralizing free radicals, antioxidant activity and by their ability to chelate ions of transition metals can effectively reduce the level of nonprotein inflammatory mediators. The biological activity of polyphenols in the skin is primarily determined by their physicochemical properties and the ability to overcome the epidermal barrier as they try to reach appropriate receptors. This study reviews literature on the effects of polyphenols relating to the physiological processes in the skin and role of the major plant polyphenols in cosmetology and dermatology.
Centella asiatica extract is a rich source of natural bioactive substances, triterpenoid saponins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, triterpenic steroids, amino acids and sugars. Thus, many scavenging free radicals, exhibit antiinflammatory activity and affect on the stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the in vivo moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water emulsion cream and hydrogel) containing different concentrations of Centella asiatica extract. The study was conducted over four weeks on a group of 25 volunteers after twice a day application of cosmetic formulations with Centella asiatica extract (2.5 and 5%, w/w) on their forearms. The measurement of basic skin parameters (stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function) was performed once a week. The in vivo antiinflammatory activity based on the methyl nicotinate model of microinflammation in human skin was evaluated after four weeks application of tested formulations. In vivo tests formulations containing 5% of Centella asiatica extract showed the best efficacy in improving skin moisture by increase of skin surface hydration state and decrease in transepidermal water loss as well as exhibited antiinflammatory properties based on the methyl nicotinate model of microinflammation in human skin. Comparative tests conducted by corneometer, tewameter and chromameter showed that cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract have the moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties.
The skin as the largest part of human body is one of the main targets for ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, toxic chemicals and some metal ions, which share responsibility for the formation of free radicals. The resulting free radicals, both oxygen and nitrogen species are one of the main causes of aging due to impaired regulation of cell respiratory metabolism involving incomplete oxygen reduction in mitochondria and production a superoxide anion, hydroxyl radicals et al. In modern cosmetology to minimize the adverse effects of free radicals, antioxidants, which inhibit free radical reactions, mainly autoxidation processes are used. Currently, not only many cosmetic products containing antioxidants are available, but a large diversity of methods for determination of cosmetics antioxidant activity is also accessible. These methods can be divided into three main groups: in vitro, in vivo, and ex vivo as reported herein. Due to lack of standardization and validation it is necessary to use a variety of methods as well as conditions for those purposes, which are presented to the context.
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