These results suggest that AEC/soap-based cleanser washes off facial sebum well, but it has little effect on the induction of dry skin because of less penetration into stratum corneum.
Monoalkyl phosphate (MAP) salts are a kind of bivalent anionic surfactants. The difference of properties between half-neutralized monosalt and completely neutralized disalt is very interesting. In this study, the aggregation behavior of monopotassium monododecyl phosphate (MAP-12K) in aqueous solution with an increase in concentration was investigated by surface tension (γ), elemental analysis, gas chromatography, differential scanning calorimetry, steady-state fluorescence, and negative strained transmission electron microscopy techniques. MAP-12K aqueous solution showed some characteristics: (I) Vesicle aggregates were formed at very dilute concentration (1.2 mM). (II) The precipitate of a highly hydrophobic dimer of MAP, which was quaternary neutralized by potassium, was generated only in a certain dilute concentration region (2.7-200 mM) around the critical micelle concentration (cmc = 20 mM). (III) Vesicles spontaneously translate into micelles at the cmc. (IV) In the higher concentration above 200 mM, the solution becomes homogeneous micellar solution. All of these uncommon characteristics are thought to be caused by the generation of the dimer, which is much more hydrophobic than dissolved MAP derivatives, in the complicated chemical equilibria based on the weakly acidic character of MAP. MAP-12K aqueous solution behaves as if it is a binary mixed surfactant solution of hydrophobic dialkyl surfactant and hydrophilic monoalkyl surfactant in spite of a single component solution.
The newly formulated skin cleanser with the combination of anionic surfactants SLES and AEC and the non-ionic surfactant LG provides a mild surfactant with a satisfactory cleansing activity for body washing.
Five anionic surfactants widely used in commercial skin cleansers were studied: sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl ether carboxylate (EC), sodium polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate (ES), sodium dodecyl sulfate, potassium laurate, and N-cocoyl-L-glutamic acid monosodium salt. The amount of surfactant from aqueous solution adsorbed into the stratum corneum (SC), the degree of SC swelling, the change of the secondary structure of SC proteins (denaturation). The surface tension of surfactant-zein mixed solutions, and the solubilization behavior of zein were measured. Results showed that EC had the lowest adsorption into SC, the lowest SC swelling, and lowest denaturation of SC proteins. Low interactions between surfactants and SC proteins were also observed for EC/ES mixture solutions as well as. Mixing EC with ES good foaming performance. The EC/ES mixture, at about 1:1 ratio, is an excellent surfactant system for skin cleanser applications having cleansing characteristics and mildness to the skin.
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