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This paper discusses the physical deterioration of the two traditional Malay textile Songkets preserved by the Department of Museums Malaysia. The identification of material and degradation were investigated by using visual observation and scientific analysis. The visual observation was carried out to analyse the physical appearance by examining the characteristics, colour visualization, and the degree of deterioration of the textiles with the aid of a handheld optical digital microscope to capture the tangible characteristics and damages on the artefacts. Scientific analysis was carried out by using the FTIR instrument to determine the materials of two traditional Malay textile Songkets. The selections were controlled by the colour selection, type, form, style, and the material of the artefacts. The results show that both artefacts were made from silk and experienced physical deterioration. However, the degree of degradation was even more pronounced for Case Study 2 (CS2) although the material is the same. Furthermore, a distinct poor condition could be seen in Case Study 2 (CS2) in comparison to the condition of Case Study 1 (CS1). Keywords: malay songket textile artefact; visual analysis; degradation factors; material identification eISSN: 2398-4287 © 2020. The Authors. Published for AMER ABRA cE-Bs by e-International Publishing House, Ltd., UK. This is an open access article under the CC BYNC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). Peer–review under responsibility of AMER (Association of Malaysian Environment-Behaviour Researchers), ABRA (Association of Behavioural Researchers on Asians) and cE-Bs (Centre for Environment-Behaviour Studies), Faculty of Architecture, Planning & Surveying, Universiti Teknologi MARA, Malaysia. DOI: https://doi.org/10.21834/ebpj.v7iSI7%20(Special%20Issue).3769

In this study, natural colours were produced from Melastoma Malabathricum L.’s (Senduduk) plant. The dyes were extracted from the petal part of the plant using solvent extraction method of acidified methanol and methanol. The natural colours were then converted into powder form of nano size scale using a ball mill grinder. Silk fabrics were used as the substrate and dyed using several natural and synthetic mordant. The use of different solvents for extraction and mordant for dyeing resulted in different colour shades on the silk fabrics. The color fastness to washing tests revealed colour fastness to washing ranging from 3 – 4/5 and the change in color ranging from 3/4 – 4/5. The findings will benefit and promote the dyeing and printing industry such as batik manufacturers and local fashion industry in using natural dyes. On the other hand, dyes from plants can also be used as an alternative to synthetic dyes for dyeing natural silk fibers.

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