Cotton is the most significant natural fibre and has been a preferred choice of the textile industry and consumers since the industrial revolution began. The share of man-made fibres, both regenerated and synthetic fibres, has grown considerably in recent times but cotton production has also been on the rise and accounts for about half of the fibres used for apparel and textile goods. To cotton's advantage, the premium attached to the presence of cotton fibre and the general positive consumer perception is well established, however, compared to commodity manmade fibres and high performance fibres, cotton has limitations in terms of its mechanical properties but can help to overcome moisture management issues that arise with performance apparel during active wear. This issue of Textile Progress aims to: i. Report on advances in cotton cultivation and processing as well as improvements to conventional cotton cultivation and ginning. The processing of cotton in the textile industry from fibre to finished fabric, cotton and its blends, and their applications in technical textiles are also covered. ii. Explore the economic impact of cotton in different parts of the world including an overview of global cotton trade. iii. Examine the environmental perception of cotton fibre and efforts in organic and genetically-modified (GM) cotton production. The topic of naturally-coloured cotton, post-consumer waste is covered and the environmental impacts of cotton cultivation and processing are discussed. Hazardous effects of cultivation, such as the extensive use of pesticides, insecticides and irrigation with fresh water, and consequences of the use of GM cotton and cotton fibres in general on the climate are summarised and the effects of cotton processing on workers are addressed. The potential hazards during cotton cultivation, processing and use are also included. iv. Examine how the properties of cotton textiles can be enhanced, for example, by improving wrinkle recovery and reducing the flammability of cotton fibre.
Cationisation of cotton is emerging as an effective tool that may help to solve the environmental problems associated with the dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes. The efficiency of the cationising agent CA200 has been investigated and was found to be more effective when compared with the usual method for reactive dyeing of cotton. Pretreatment of the cotton fabric with the cationising agent increases the rate of dyeing compared with the existing method of reactive dyeing. The colour yields, in terms of the Kubelka–Munk values as a function of the amount of dye fixed, showed that cationisation enhances the colour strength. It also improves the washing fastness, rubbing fastness and depth of shade. The positive environmental impact of this cationisation process is significant and the cationised cotton shows a similar fabric quality as with the normal dyeing process.
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