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Two high‐resolution mass spectrometers (HRMS) with different analyzer technology, Orbitrap and hybrid quadrupole time‐of‐flight (QTOF), were compared with a low‐resolution mass spectrometer, quadrupole, to analyse a set of 35 difficult allergens. These difficult allergens are commonly coeluted fragrance allergens with matrix compounds, using standard gas chromatography‐mass spectrometer conditions, from the extended list of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Although the fundamental role of chromatographic separation has been demonstrated many times, the aim of this work is to demonstrate the benefits of high‐resolution. The added value of high‐resolution was illustrated in both a qualitative and a quantitative way. For qualitative aspect, the high resolution extracted ion signals of these two detectors were compared with the low‐resolution extracted ion signals. About 50% of the coeluted cases observed with the low‐resolution detector are easily resolved by the two high‐resolution detectors. For the quantitative aspect, an accuracy profile methodology and a performance metric were used to propose an overall evaluation. The Orbitrap mass spectrometer demonstrated a better overall performance, while the QTOF presented similar or even lower quantification performances than the quadrupole on the set of analysed fragrances.

Furocoumarins are secondary metabolites that occur in various plant species used as ingredients in fragrances and cosmetics. Those compounds have received an increased interest in those matrices since they are known to induce photosensitization and to have potential carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic effects. To date, there are no restricted limits regarding these compounds; however, some committees proposed following seven targeted compounds at low level concentration in finished cosmetic products (≤1 mg/l). This implies the need for a robust and specific analytical method to control and determine their concentrations in essential oils or more complex matrices such as fragrances. An innovative RP‐HPLC high‐resolution/accurate‐mass MS method based on Orbitrap technology was developed to quantify seven furocoumarins in fragrances in the range 0.01–1 mg/l. This method was developed and validated according to accuracy profile methodology. Accurate mass and high resolution provides a robust and highly specific approach to quantify the compounds and minimize tedious sample preparation. The method was finally used to quantify more than 50 perfumes (eaux de toilette, eaux de parfum, extraits). Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Roses have beautiful shapes and colors, which make them attractive for horticultural purposes, and more than 18,000 varieties have been created by crossings. 1 Rose is also one of the major sources of natural ingredients for the fragrance industry. Indeed, the Queen of the flowers brings exceptional facets to perfume compositions. Among the 200 rose species, Rosa centifolia and Rosa damascena are the two main species used by the fragrance industry. 1 Rosa centifolia is mainly farmed in France and Morocco, 2,3 while Rosa damascena is mainly farmed in Bulgaria, Turkey, China, India and Egypt. 2,3 Rosa damascena is used to produce essential oil (yield: 0.03%), concrete (yield: 0.17%-0.40%), and absolute (yield: 50%-65% from concrete extraction), whereas Rosa centifolia is only used for concrete and absolute, and is not economically viable for essential oil. 4 Due to its rarity Rosa centifolia is one of the most precious species used in perfumery for absolute. Obtention of rose concrete from fresh rose flowers is a well-known process. Rose concrete is produced by solvent extraction, generally using petroleum ether and/or "generic" hexane. 2,[5][6][7][8] In contrast with recent allegations, 9 various mixtures of C6 hydrocarbons with low n-hexane content are preferred, rather than pure n-hexane, a CMR and neurotoxic substance. Benzene is no longer used for solvent extraction due to his high toxicity. 10 Moreover, to date extraction of fresh rose flowers with liquefied gases or supercritical CO 2 have not reached any significant importance. Rose concrete is a waxy, semi-solid material, that is, hardly soluble in ethanol. So, concrete is poorly used in its native form for fragrances and is further transformed into absolute using ethanol. Concrete is dissolved in hot ethanol (between 35 and 40°C) and then filtered at glacial temperature (−20°C). Ethanol is finally evaporated under vacuum to get the absolute. 2,6,11,12 Rose absolute is a dark red liquid with a typical rose odor. Rose absolute is considered to represent the more genuine character of rose fragrance. Indeed,