The indentometric analysis for both in vivo skin and artificial skin models could be interpreted by using the Hertz theory of contact mechanics. The loading and unloading indentometric curves could be used to assess the viscoelasticity of the investigated materials while creep and stress relaxation processes were analyzed quantitatively by the Kelvin-Voigt model with one relaxation time.

Summary: Atomic force microscopy (AFM) and lateral force microscopy (LFM) were used to investigate the morphologic and surface changes associated with various surface modifications to human hair. These included extraction with a series of solvents, bleaching, and treatment with a cationic copolymer. The study assessed the ability of these techniques to distinguish the changes in surface properties, including morphology and friction coefficient, as manifested in changes brought about by the indicated surface modifications. While topographic morphology can easily be investigated with contact AFM, LFM offers an additional tool for probing the surface distribution of oils and waxes. The removal of surface lipids from the fiber surface was accomplished using soxhlet extraction with t-butanol and n-hexane, while the free internal lipids (within the fiber structure) were removed by extraction with a mixture of chloroform and methanol (70:30, v/v). In addition, the surface of hair was modified with the cationic polymer, co(vinyl pyrrolidone-methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride [PVP/MAPTAC]), and its distribution on the surface was monitored. Ambient AFM and LFM studies of surface modified and native fibers clearly indicate that when investigated as a function of tip loading force, the different modifications result in changes of the friction coefficient, which increase in this order: native, bleached, solvent extracted, and polymer-treated hair. Friction images show surface variations that are interpreted as areas of varying lipid film coverage. In addition, topographic images of the fibers show the presence of small pores, which become increasingly prevalent upon solvent extraction.

The conformational and dynamical properties of Langmuir monolayers of 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) and the parent material, eicosanoic acid (EA), are compared using molecular dynamics simulations. The effects on various properties, including film thickness, tilt angle, and order parameter, of the methyl group at the 18 position in 18-MEA were investigated as a function of film-packing density. NVT simulations were run as a function of decreasing areal-packing density similar to experimental Langmuir-Blodgett film compressions and expansions. We find that the order parameters and film thickness for 18-MEA monolayers were markedly different from those of EA. The order parameters for methylene groups for both 18-MEA and EA are greater in the middle region of the chain than at the ends in high-density films. This trend becomes reversed in lower density films. Significantly, our simulations show that the order parameters for methylene groups near the CH3 and carboxyl termini in 18-MEA are comparatively independent of film density in contrast with those of EA. Our findings show that the presence of the methyl group at the 18-position in 18-MEA induces unique intermolecular structural correlations compared to EA.

There are numerous chromophores present throughout the strata of human skin, which present many challenges and opportunities to probe molecular events. Fluorescence spectroscopy is principally employed to identify important biochemical components of the skin including endogenous tryptophan, tyrosine, pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links, collagenase-digestible collagen cross-links, NADH, etc. Over the last 15 years, many advances in instrument technology have been introduced allowing for much faster data acquisition with spectrofluorometers. As a result, a series of spectrofluorescence emission scans can be generated for a range of excitation wavelengths, or vice versa (excitation scans for a range of emission wavelengths), quickly to generate excitation-emission matrices. In this work, we constructed an endogenous fingerprint of fluorescent compounds present in skin, hair and nail tissues by employing a range of excitation wavelengths from 270 to 450 nm with a resolution of 2 nm. As a result, we generated surface plots of fluorescence emission as a function of excitation and emission wavelengths. From these data, we identified the predominant fluorescent chromophores in each tissue. We examined several sources of skin including in vivo human and ex vivo pig, sheep, goat and cow skin. We also analysed various types of mature hair characterized by the degree of melanin content. These analyses provided us with a fundamental understanding of the effects of melanin distribution in hair fibres and aided with the identification of fluorophores present in hair.

The data indicate that high molecular weight polymers can be useful as skin stiffening, firming, or tightening agents. This was demonstrated by indentometric, mechanical analysis of natural skin and artificial skin models, and by determining Young's modulae and viscoelastic parameters.