Purpose: This study quantitatively evaluates the effect of adhesive interlining on the appearance of tailored jackets with different rigidity.Design/methodology/approach: Four tailored jackets having the same pattern and fabric and three different adhesive interlinings or no adhesive interlining were prepared as experimental samples. Criteria and characteristics for assessing jacket appearance were investigated in sensory tests. A paired comparison of the jacket appearance was conducted using a ranking method. Smoothness and constriction values were proposed and obtained using three-dimensional shape data. The smoothness value refers to the degree of wrinkling on the jacket surface and the constriction value refers to the degree of constriction of the waist line. A quantitative assessment model of jacket appearance was proposed using multiple regression analysis. Findings:The sensory test reveals that the number of wrinkles, acceptability of wrinkling and degree of constriction of the waist are important criteria in the assessment of jacket appearance. The smoothness value for the front body and the constriction value of the waist partially agreed with the normal scores of sensory test results. Sensory evaluation values for the entire jacket appearance were estimated employing multiple regression analysis with the constriction and smoothness values. The values of jacket appearance estimated using multiple regression analysis were in good agreement with the sensory test results.Originality/value: Criteria and characteristics to be used in the assessment of the appearance of a jacket with adhesive interlining were clarified. Employing the proposed methodology, it is possible to predict jacket appearance for different adhesive interlinings, quantitatively.

Abstract:The quantitative assessment methods for appearance differences of jackets caused by bonding different adhesive interlinings to face fabric were investigated. A sensory test was carried out to evaluate jacket appearance differences depending on different adhesive interlinings. The quantitative assessment methods of jacket appearances were investigated using 2D and 3D image analysis. The outlines of cross point location for both lapel and bottom in the front view were obtained from the 2D images. The horizontal and vertical cross-sections of bottom part for each jacket were obtained from the 3D images. The compared results with the obtained 2D and 3D images showed a possibility to evaluate jacket appearance changes by bonding adhesive interlining. The variances of the curvature of the vertical cross-section were also obtained. The variances were compared with sensory test results and those showed high correlation each other. Therefore, it was able to evaluate the jacket appearance quantitatively using variance of the curvature from cross-sections of 3D images.