The aim of this study was to compare the back length distances (BacLen) from contemporary construction systems with the measured back length distances of the Slovenian young female population to establish which back length presented in diff erent contemporary construction systems fi ts best to the body dimension of a specifi c target market group. 160 female students (aged between 19 and 27 years) from the University of Ljubljana (Slovenia) volunteered for the study. The results showed that the measured back length distances diff ered signifi cantly from those obtained from the tables of contemporary construction systems or calculated as a secondary measure according to these systems. The measured BacLen distances were the same in all size groups and did not increase as did with all analyzed contemporary construction systems. The range of measured BacLen distances inside each size group was substantial (33−43 cm) and the measured BacLen distances were not in correlation with the body height, bust girth and in consequence nor with the calculated BacLen distances. In conclusion, the values for back length distances as proposed by diff erent contemporary construction systems diff er signifi cantly from the measured ones in the young Slovenian female population. We thus suggest including back length distance as a directly measured parameter for a pattern block construction when producing made-to-measure clothes.

The aim of the work was to improve the development of a basic pattern block with modelling a curve of the side seam over the hip of the skirt or trousers. The area between the waist and the maximum hip line is completely overlooked as none of the pattern construction systems give precise instructions. To support the idea, data from anthropometric measurements of 162 young Slovenian women between the ages of 18 and 27 were used. The shape of the curve at the side seam of the skirt was quantified using a hip curve distance (HCD) based on a new measurement: an additional girth measurement 11 cm below the waist girth. The HCD range of 4,77 cm indicated significant differences in the shape of the curve at the side seam of the skirt that could not be neglected.

Sistem za razvoj temeljnih krojev oblačil, ki je podlaga za kakovostno izdelavo krojev modela, je nepogrešljiv element v proizvodnji vsakega oblačilnega podjetja. V praksi je še vedno najpogostejša uporaba katerega od t. i. tradicionalnih sistemov. Vsebuje celostna navodila za razvoj oblik krojnih delov oblačil, ki pri šivanju iz dvodimenzionalnih tekstilnih površin tvorijo tridimenzionalno obliko, ki se bolj ali manj prilega telesu nosilca oblačila. Sodobnih konstrukcijskih sistemov je na trgu veliko. Slovenska oblačilna industrija pogosto uporablja katerega od nemških sistemov (t. i. Müllerjev sistem), medtem ko v Nemčiji srečamo več različnih sistemov, ki so drugačni od tistih v Veliki Britaniji, Italiji ali Madžarski itd. V prispevku je narejena primerjava različnih sodobnih sistemov za razvoj temeljnih krojev oblačil različnih avtorjev. Primerjava je narejena na področjih metodologij antropometričnega merjenja telesa, oznak velikosti oblačil/preglednic mer, formul za izračun sekundarnih telesnih mer iz primarnih in metod razvoja krojev oblačil, ki se kažejo v različnih oblikah krojnih delov in njihovega dimenzijskega prileganja obliki telesa. Razlike so velike, številne in pomembne. Razvoj konstrukcijskih sistemov v prihodnosti bo zasnovan na računalniško podprtih konstrukcijskih sistemih z zajemom podatkov s 3D elektronskimi skenerji. Ti omogočajo hitrejše zbiranje podatkov o dimenzijah, oblikah in držah teles potencialnih uporabnikov oblačil in posledično boljše prilagajanje krojev/oblačil njihovim postavam. Ključne besede: konstrukcijski sistem, razvoj temeljnih krojev oblačil, oblačilna antropometrija, preglednica mer, metode razvoja kroja

The aim of this study was to compare body rise distances (crotch depth) from contemporary construction systems with the measured body rise (BRise) distances of the young Slovenian female population to establish which body rise presented in diff erent contemporary construction systems fi ts best to the body dimensions of that specifi c target market group. A total of 180 female students (aged 19 to 27 years) from the University of Ljubljana (Slovenia) volunteered in the study. The results showed that measured body rise distances diff ered signifi cantly from those obtained from most tables of contemporary construction systems or calculated as a secondary measure according to some authors. Measured BRise distances were the same in all size groups and did not increase as the size group increased as is the case with all analysed contemporary construction systems. The range of measured BRise distances within each size group was substantial (SD from 1.47 to 2.75 cm), while the Müller system, as the most frequently used pattern construction system in Slovenia, gave the lowest values of BRise distances for all size groups. In conclusion, the values for body rise distances proposed by diff erent contemporary construction systems diff er signifi cantly from those measured in the young Slovenian female population. It is suggested that body rise distance be included as a directly measured parameter for trouser pattern block construction when producing made-to-measure clothes. Keywords: pattern construction, anthropometric measurements, body rise, trousers, basic pattern block Povzetek Cilj študije je bil primerjati vrednosti globine sedala (GSe) iz sodobnih konstrukcijskih sistemov z izmerjenimi