The paper describes experimental investigation of the flow and turbulent kinetic energy under the weakly plunging breaking wave in the outer surf zone. Experiments for the present study were carried out on a surf zone model with a constant slope of 1 : 17 in the vicinity of the wave breaking point. Experimental results show that the kinetic energy is largest under the wave crest and decreases rapidly after the wave crest has passed. Visualization of the flow proved that the velocity profile during backflow phases resembles the steady open channel flow, but during the onflow phases the velocity profile is unlike any other flow situation.

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The article describes experimental investigation of the turbulent oscillatory boundary layer in the vicinity of the wave breaking point. Measurements were carried out on the inclined bottom in 29 cross-sections, of which 3 are investigated in the current paper. These cross-sections are chosen so that they include the breaking point. The semi-logarithmic plots of dimensionless velocity profiles were plotted on the basis of laser Doppler anemometer measurements. The velocity distributions in breaking waves are essentially different from those observed in steady flows or in oscillatory flows in rectangular U-tubes.

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