For military leather processing pinnacle technologies are applied, because the leather must have extreme hydrophobicity, herewith to maintain the breathability and moisture management capabilities. Therefore, leather producers must use such tanning chemicals, which are able to impart sufficient waterproofness and vapour permeability. In this study the influence of retanning and fatliquoring technologies for wet-blue hide conversion into finished military leather on its waterproofing behaviour and breathability has been studied. The comparable evaluation of leathers manufactured in Lithuanian and Kazakhstan tanneries was carried out. The leathers were characterized by chemical analysis and moisture absorption, water vapour permeability and water vapour absorption properties.

DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5755/j01.ms.18.2.1918

The effect of laser technological parameters on the color of denim fabric is a topic of research for scientists in various countries. More detailed investigations, which would estimate the effect of several main laser technological parameters on the color, taking into account morphological fabric modifications, have been yet to be performed. Therefore, the aim of this study was to define the effect of laser technological parameters on the color of denim fabric. In the research, denim fabric was used with the following fiber content: 98% cotton and 2% EL, surface density 357 g/m2, weave – twill 3/1. The specimens were treated using a CO2 laser, with changing beam power and motorized drive parameters – the speed and step. Using a spectrophotometer, the change of the fabric surface color, Δ E, and color system, HSB, were determined both before and after laser treatment. Morphological analysis of the fabric was carried out uing a scanning electron microscope. The research showed that the color change, Δ E, of the laser-treated specimens is different in the warp and weft directions. The highest Δ E was reached while changing the beam power. The largest effect on the change of color hue, H, and color saturation, S, amongst all tested laser technological parameters was found for laser power. Color brightness, B, was mostly affected by laser step size, when laser energy density is ∼6 mJ/cm2.

Unfinished leather has high water vapour permeability and low waterproofness because of its natural porous structure. To modify the surface appearance and hide any defects, to improve physical properties, such as light and rub fastness, resistance to water, solvents, abrasion, etc., leather needs to be finished. In this study the influence of waterborne finishing agents on the waterproofness and breathability of the hydrophobic leather obtained using different retanning, waterproofing, neutralization and dispersing agents has been investigated. The leather was characterized using morphological analysis and permeability studies.

Knitted fabrics with different quantity of elastane, conspicuous by high viscosity and elasticity, having one of the most important performance properties - resistance to pilling are often used in the production of high quality sportswear. During technological process imitating operating conditions, the behaviour of knitted fabrics may be changed by different industrial softeners from 12 % to 20 % of active substance, for example fatty acid condensate (Tubingal 5051) or silicone micro emulsion (Tubingal SMF). The aim of this investigation is to define the influence of fibrous composition and chemical softeners to the propensity of fuzzing and pilling of plain and plated jersey pattern knitted fabrics. The results of investigations showed that fibrous composition and thickness of materials (up to 6 %) and washing as well as softening (from 33 % to 67 %) change the resistance of knitted fabrics to pilling.

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence made by complex finishing of denim fabrics, i.e. laser treatment and industrial washing, on the change in tension properties of fabric. Design/methodology/approach Test specimens were treated by a laser JG-10050. Lasers main technological parameters: maximum laser beam power is 65 W, laser types are hermetic and detached CO2, laser tube wavelength is 10.62 µm. The test specimens processed by different laser energy density have been exposed to industrial washing and their tensile characteristics have been investigated. Findings The results of the research have demonstrated that complex finishing reduces the breaking force; however, material extensibility remains almost unchanged. Mechanical behaviour and composition characteristics of fabric are determined both by laser motion direction in respect of warp or weft and laser energy density. Originality/value The carried-out analysis of scientific literature has shown that the effect of laser on the fabric surface is relevant both in scientific and practical terms: the scientific literature contains studies on absorptive properties of laser treated materials; however, the behaviour of materials after complex finishing has not been widely investigated thus far.