Currently, many extracts from natural sources are added to cosmetic products for reducing facial aging and wrinkles. This study investigated the antiwrinkle activity of enriched extract of Isatidis Folium used for a novel antiwrinkle cream product. The result demonstrated that this enriched extract has excellent antiwrinkle activity by significantly inhibiting mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1, matrix metalloproteinase-3, and pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1β and upregulating the mRNA expression of IL-4 and procollagen. Additionally, to implement effective quality control of the entire manufacturing process of antiwrinkle cream products based on the enriched extract of Isatidis Folium, the main chemical constituents of the enriched extract of Isatidis Folium was evaluated by high–performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS/MS), five constituents were undisputedly confirmed. An HPLC-UV method in 15-min analysis time for quality assessment of the entire manufacturing process of antiwrinkle cream products was proposed and validated. The optimal conditions for extracting TMCA (3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic acid) from the developed antiwrinkle cream products were determined using response surface methodology based on central composite design. The established HPLC method and optimal extract condition are suitable for routinely analyzing this novel antiwrinkle cream product.

Isatis indigotica leaf is an oriental herbal medicine that has been known for various pharmacological effects. However, its anti-wrinkle activity has not been fully evaluated. Therefore, we evaluated the anti-wrinkle effect of I. indigotica leaf extract on human skin. The purified extract inhibited 85.4% of 2,2-diphenyl-1-1picrylhydrazyl and 72.2% of 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt radicals at a concentration of 1 mg/mL. Nitrite production was reduced by 30% after treatment with 50 μg/mL of extract. Three fractions from the extract downregulated the mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -3 and upregulated the expression of interleukin 4. Among the three fractions, fraction 2 exhibited the highest activity. The major component of the extract was identified as 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic acid by liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. Molecular docking was conducted to predict the binding mechanism of 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic with matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -3, and their binding energies were −5.20 and −4.89 kcal/mol, respectively. In a clinical trial, five roughness values of visiometer and visual score were significantly reduced in treated groups compared with the placebo group after 8 weeks. I. indigotica leaf extract inhibits wrinkle formation, and could be a potential anti-wrinkle agent. This is the first clinical trial demonstrating its anti-wrinkle activity.

The root of Pueraria lobata (Willd.) is a widely used herbal medicine worldwide, whereas the stem of the plant is discarded or used as feed for livestock. To reuse and exploit the stem of P. lobata as a resource, we investigated its potential as a skin-whitening agent. We found that the developed, enriched P. lobata stem (PLS) extract significantly inhibited melanin production in the 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine-induced B16/F10 cells at a concentration of 50 μg/mL. To further confirm the mechanism of the antimelanogenic effect of the enriched PLS extracts, we examined the mRNA expression of tyrosinase, which was suppressed by the extracts. To standardize and implement effective quality control of the enriched PLS extracts, its major chemical constituents were identified by high-performance liquid chromatography–photodiode array–electrospray ionization–mass spectrometry. In total, 12 constituents were identified. In silico analysis showed that the main constituents, puerarin and daidzin, had excellent binding affinities for human tyrosinase. Collectively, our results suggest that the PLS extracts could be used as anti-pigmentation agents.

In this study, derivatives of trimethoxybenzene were investigated as inhibitors of melanogenesis. We examined the effects of methyl 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzoate (MTB), ethyl 3,4,5trimethoxybenzoate (ETB), methyl 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamate (MTC), and ethyl 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamate (ETC). First, the inhibitory effects of these agents on melanin production were evaluated using α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells. We found that all derivatives decreased α-MSH-induced melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells; ETC showed a strong inhibitory effect at half of the concentration of the other derivatives. As tyrosinase is considered a key enzyme of melanogenesis, we also examined whether the derivatives inhibited tyrosinase activity. MTC and ETC reduced mushroom tyrosinase activity and expression levels of α-MSH-induced B16F10 cellular tyrosinase protein. Inhibitory effects of all derivatives on α-MSH-induced B16F10 cellular tyrosinase activity were shown in a dose-dependent manner. Additionally, the derivatives were exposed to diphenylpicrylhydrazyl free radical to examine their antioxidant characteristics. All derivatives showed considerable antioxidant activity, which was 2-fold higher than that of arbutin. In conclusion, the trimethoxybenzene derivatives, including MTB, ETB, MTC, and ETC exerted anti-melanogenic and antioxidant effects on α-MSHstimulated melanogenesis, demonstrating their potential for use as novel hypopigmenting agents and antioxidants.

Betula platyphylla extract includes various materials which showed biological activity such as terpenoids. For this reason, Betula platyphylla extract has been used to alleviate inflammation. In this study, extract of Betula platyphylla was obtained and purified using several solvents and evaluated whether they showed effect on prevention of hair loss. Cell cytotoxicity assay was performed to investigate the effect of extracts on cell proliferation. Western blotting was performed to observe the changes in expression of several related growth factors such as β-catenin, VEGF, IGF1, and cyclin D. Also, 5-αreductase activity was measured. The ethyl acetate extract was divided into four partial extracts and named as H3-1, H3-2, H3-3, and H3-4. The H3-2 extract showed proliferation activity of human derma papilla cell and increased the protein expression of several related growth factors such as β-catenin, VEGF, IGF1, and cyclin D, comparable to the effect of Ethyl 3,4,5-Trimethoxy Benzoate (ETB)and Lupeol (LPO). Moreover, we found that the fraction H3 was shown to decrease 5-α-reductase activity while ETB and LPO had no significant effect on 5-α-reductase activity.Keywords 5-α-reductase activity • Betula platyphylla extract • Ethyl 3,4,5-trimethoxy benzoate • Hair growth • Human derma papilla cell • Lupeol