3D wave-resolving simulation of sandbar migration

Marchesiello, Patrick; Chauchat, Julien; Shafiei, Hassan; Almar, Rafaël; Benshila, Rachid; Dumas, Franck; Debreu, Laurent

doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2022.102127

Cited by 13 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 71 publications

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“…These simulated processes are usually coupled through mass and momentum conservation laws. Such models include MIKE 21 (Warren and Bach, 1992), Delft3D (Lesser et al, 2004), ROMS (Warner et al, 2008) and CROCO (Marchesiello et al, 2022). In general, these models are used to model short-term and local events in the nearshore zone and are not considered applicable over larger spatio-temporal scales (Montaño et al, 2020;Davidson, 2021).…”

Section: Existing Methods In Shoreline Change Forecastingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Improving Shoreline Forecasting Models with Multi-Objective Genetic Programming

Najar¹,

Almar²,

Bergsma³

et al. 2023

Preprint

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Given the current context of climate change and the increasing population densities at coastal zones around the globe, there is an increasing need to be able to predict the development of our coasts. Recent advances in artificial intelligence allow for automatic analysis of observational data. Symbolic Regression (SR) is a type of Machine Learning algorithm that aims to find interpretable symbolic expressions that can explain the relations in the data. In this work, we aim to study the problem of forecasting shoreline change using SR. We make use of Cartesian Genetic Programming (CGP) in order to encode and improve upon ShoreFor, a shoreline prediction model. Coupled with NSGA-II, the CGP individuals are evaluated and selected during evolution according to their predictive skills at five different coastal sites. This work presents a comparison between the CGP-evolved models and the base ShoreFor model. In addition to its ability to produce well-performing models, the work demonstrates the usefulness of CGP as a research tool to gain insight into the behaviors of shorelines at different points around the globe.

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Section: Existing Methods In Shoreline Change Forecastingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Improving Shoreline Forecasting Models with Multi-Objective Genetic Programming

Najar¹,

Almar²,

Bergsma³

et al. 2023

Preprint

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“…The turbulent closure differs from Hilt et al. (2020) as we used the General Length Scale model in the K − ϵ version (Marchesiello & Treillou, 2023). The east‐west boundaries are open forced with the initial stratification with a sponge layer to avoid spurious reflections.…”

Section: Numerical Approachmentioning

confidence: 99%

Evidence of Reflected Internal Solitary Waves in the Strait of Gibraltar

Roustan,

Bordois,

Garciá‐Lafuente

et al. 2024

JGR Oceans

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Large‐amplitude internal solitary waves (ISWs) propagating eastward toward the Alboran Sea have long been known in the Strait of Gibraltar. New in‐situ data and satellite images evidence northwestward propagating ISWs. These waves are probably the reflection of the well‐known eastward propagating wave along the Moroccan shelf. A simple 2D‐vertical section, run with the compressible non‐hydrostatic Coastal and Regional Ocean COmmunity model, illustrates that the Moroccan slope is conducive to reflection of incident solitary waves of amplitude observed in the Strait of Gibraltar. A clear signature of these waves in the Tarifa high‐frequency sea level oscillations is depicted that paves the way to studies of the seasonality of ISWs in the Strait of Gibraltar with the long‐time series of sea level at Tarifa. The polarity of the reflected waves, observed with Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers/Conductivity‐Temperature‐Depth array moorings, presents a slight variability possibly due to the internal tide oscillations. The reflected ISWs arrives at the mooring location in phase with the peak of the internal tide. For the strongest tide, the pynocline approaches a critical point where the polarity of the ISWs might reverse.

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“…It has been applied to a variety of configurations, from regional and shelf circulations to very fine-scale processes, such as wave-induced nearshore circulation (Marchesiello et al, 2015(Marchesiello et al, , 2021(Marchesiello et al, , 2022. In its non-hydrostatic version, CROCO is able to resolve individual wave propagation, shoaling and breaker-induced circulation.…”

Section: The 3d Wave-resolving Model Crocomentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The nearshore region, consisting of the surf zone (from shoreline to breaking point) and the inner shelf (up to approximately 20 meter depth), is a turbulent area, with various time and space scales interacting and coexisting with each other. Understanding the processes that govern transport and circulation in this region is of critical importance for many reasons: health issues associated with coastal pollutants (Boehm et al, 2005), safety of users exposed to drowning due to rip currents (Woodward et al, 2013), ecosystem issues associated with coastal retention or dispersal of plankton or larvae (Moulton et al, 2023;Shanks et al, 2017), and sediment transport and morphological changes (Marchesiello et al, 2022).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Correction of coherent interference in wave-resolving nearshore models and validation with experimental data

Treillou,

Marchesiello,

Baker

2024

Ocean Modelling

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3D wave-resolving simulation of sandbar migration

Cited by 13 publications

References 71 publications

Improving Shoreline Forecasting Models with Multi-Objective Genetic Programming

Improving Shoreline Forecasting Models with Multi-Objective Genetic Programming

Evidence of Reflected Internal Solitary Waves in the Strait of Gibraltar

Correction of coherent interference in wave-resolving nearshore models and validation with experimental data

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