A Commercially Available Skin Care Lotion with a pH of 4.5 and 10% Urea Improves Skin Surface pH, Stratum Corneum Hydration and Epidermal Barrier Function in Subjects with Dry Skin and Atopic Diathesis

Blaak, Jürgen; Theiss, Christiane; Schleißinger, Marina; Simon, Isabel; Schürer, Nanna; Staib, Peter

doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2020.103014

Cited by 2 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 54 publications

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“…A previous product evaluation has shown the positive impact of a plant-oil-containing skin care lotion with 10% urea and a product pH around 4.5 on the EPB function in subjects with dry skin and atopic diathesis [13]. The test product was shown to improve…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 95%

“…Subject 22 also shows more free fatty acids in the SC on the treated skin than on the untreated comparison arm, but lower cholesterol and ceramide EOS values. A total of 10 test persons (1,2,8,10,12,13,14,15,16,21) show higher cholesterol values in the SC than in the untreated comparison skin as result of care with the test product, while higher values of ceramide EOS were also detected in the SC of 10 test persons (1,2,4,5,10,13,14,15,16,21). The free fatty acid content in the SC is increased in all of the treated test fields except for subject 4.…”

Section: Sc Lipid Spectrum and Profile Analysis Via Hptlcmentioning

confidence: 93%

“…Hence, developing skin care products for xerotic-and atopic-prone skin should specifically address the described (patho-)physiological background and etiology. In detail, topical preparations were formulated with hydrating agents and humectants in combination with (re-)lipidating ingredients [4] and additionally accompanied by lower formula pH, described as one element of the "next-generation barrier repair" [12] or as "targeted skin acidification" [13] to support the acidic character of the SC and the related processes.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Against this background, we initiated a previous study to investigate a plant-oilcontaining cosmetic skin care lotion with 10% urea and a given acidic product pH of 4.5, applied by subjects with dry skin and atopic diatheses [13]. In the former study, the test product was shown to improve and stabilize the acidic nature of the skin surface over a 4-week application period.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Improvement of Human Epidermal Barrier Structure and Lipid Profile in Xerotic- and Atopic-Prone Skin via Application of a Plant-Oil and Urea Containing pH 4.5 Emulsion

Blaak¹,

Dähnhardt²,

Bielfeldt

et al. 2023

Cosmetics

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Epidermal barrier dysfunction can lead to xerotic skin and promote skin disorders like atopic dermatitis. Atopic skin is characterized by reduced water-retaining compounds, altered lipid composition and elevated skin pH. Against this background, a study was conducted to investigate the impact of a specific skin care product on epidermal barrier function in dry and atopic-prone skin. A marketed pH 4.5 cosmetic formulation containing 10% urea and specific plant oils was evaluated on 25 subjects with dry and atopic-prone skin. Measurements of skin hydration, pH, and barrier function were performed before and after 3 weeks of product usage. Additionally, visual scoring and stratum corneum lipid analysis using electron microscopy were conducted to investigate lipid composition. An improved skin hydration compared to the untreated area and a tendency to decrease the baseline elevated skin surface pH were observed. The visual scoring showed reduced dryness, roughness, and tension through the application. Furthermore, the stratum corneum lipid matrix was improved in terms of lipid content and organization. The combination of an acidic product’s pH, a relevant urea content and effective plant oils is shown to be beneficial in terms of improving the skin barrier function, structure and appearance and is recommended for dry and atopic-prone skin.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 95%

Section: Sc Lipid Spectrum and Profile Analysis Via Hptlcmentioning

confidence: 93%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Improvement of Human Epidermal Barrier Structure and Lipid Profile in Xerotic- and Atopic-Prone Skin via Application of a Plant-Oil and Urea Containing pH 4.5 Emulsion

Blaak¹,

Dähnhardt²,

Bielfeldt

et al. 2023

Cosmetics

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show abstract

“…EPO has been reported to be successful in the prevention of xerotic cheilitis in acne patients being treated with isotretinoin [57]. In addition, a study on xerotic and atopic‐prone skin has shown that the application of an EPO, SAO and urea containing slightly acidic body lotion increases SC lipid lamellae density and SC lipid amount [58].…”

Section: Dermato‐cosmetic Effectsmentioning

confidence: 99%

An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications

Blaak

Staib

2022

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

Self Cite

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Background Renewed consumer and industry interest in natural ingredients has led to a large growth of natural cosmetics. This has put pressure on formulation skills and product claims when it comes to using natural compounds. Taking a strategic and comprehensive approach in viewing natural ingredients, including natural oils, as ‘active’ ingredients rather than just providing for so‐called ‘natural’ claims, aids both innovation and development. Given the ever‐increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients, and more importantly the demand for effective natural ingredients including plant oils, it is important for the cosmetic industry to re‐evaluate them in this context. Method The objectives of this review are to provide an update of three popular cosmetic plant oils – Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba – in terms of their cosmetic applications as ‘active’ ingredients. This review highlights the activity of these oils, in the management of dry skin, ageing skin, juvenile skin, atopic dermatitis, scalp conditions and their wider potential. Attention is given to formulation considerations where the content of these oils impacts product oxidation, skin penetration and stratum corneum homeostasis. Results Benefits of these oils have been well documented both pre‐clinically and clinically. Historically, they have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years for their management and treatment of various skin and other ailments. Given the discrepancies in some clinical data presented for a variety of dermatoses, the importance of the choice of oil and how to formulate with them within the context of the epidermal barrier function, skin penetration and toxicity cannot be underestimated. Care should be taken in terms of the quality and stability of theses oils, as well as ensuring best formulation type, if the reported activities of these oils are to be achieved with consistency. Despite discrepancies in the literature and questionable study designs, it is clear that Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oils do have skin care benefits for both adult and juvenile applications. Conclusion They are effective ingredients for skin care preparations to strengthen stratum corneum integrity, recovery and lipid ratio. Nevertheless, further experimental data are required concerning the impact on stratum corneum physiology and structure.

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A Commercially Available Skin Care Lotion with a pH of 4.5 and 10% Urea Improves Skin Surface pH, Stratum Corneum Hydration and Epidermal Barrier Function in Subjects with Dry Skin and Atopic Diathesis

Cited by 2 publications

References 54 publications

Improvement of Human Epidermal Barrier Structure and Lipid Profile in Xerotic- and Atopic-Prone Skin via Application of a Plant-Oil and Urea Containing pH 4.5 Emulsion

Improvement of Human Epidermal Barrier Structure and Lipid Profile in Xerotic- and Atopic-Prone Skin via Application of a Plant-Oil and Urea Containing pH 4.5 Emulsion

An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications

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