A new method of ease allowance generation for personalization of garment design

Abstract

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to present recent work for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation.Design/methodology/approachThe current method first generates a number of fuzzy models each corresponding to one specific key body part and one specific wearer's movement and then aggregates all the values of ease allowance generated from these fuzzy models using the ordered weighted averaging (OWA) operator. The aggregated ease allowance takes into account geometric measures on all representative human bodies, comfort sensations of wearers related to all movements or actions and different styles of trousers (tight, normal and loose). The weights of the OWA operator can be used to adjust the compromise between the style of garments and the comfort sensation of wearers. The related weights of the OWA operator are automatically determined according to designer's linguistic criteria characterizing the relationship between wearer's movements and the features of the garment to be designed.FindingsBased on the optimized values of ease allowance generated from fuzzy models related to different key body positions and different wearer's movements, the authors obtain a personalized ease allowance, permitting to further improve the wearer's fitting perception of a garment. The effectiveness of the method has been validated in the design of trousers of jean type. It can also be applied for designing other types of garment.Originality/valueIntegration of wearer's body shapes and human comfort in the design of personalized garments.

Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

“…(3) This study selected participants with normal BMI and a consistent hip size. However, research suggests that thin bodies required less ease than fat bodies (Chen et al 2008) and bodies of different sizes have fit issues specific to those sizes (Loker et al 2005). (4) Once the body of knowledge for basic blocks is established, researchers may investigate additional elements of garment fit: style ease, fabric and personal preferences.…”

Fit Evaluation during Repetition Interaction in Garment Pattern Design

“…As a result, reliable and convenient virtual tools for garment fit analysis are emerging. Photos and videos [7] have been used for fitting analysis, but they provide limited information for proper assessment.…”

An ICT Based Solution for Virtual Garment Fitting for Online Market Place

“…These standards are used to locate body features on the parametric human models for which 3D garment should align with. According to Chen (2008), there are eight body measurements required to be obtained for a normal trouser [5], and these parameters can be classified into two classes as follows: (1) Vertical type. Waist to hip, out-leg, curved front body rise.…”

“…Furthermore, many studies have used 3D body scanning data in order to evaluate the distance ease distribution [ [5]. Thomassey et al (2013) identified a template to determine ease in 3D patterns in order to generate personalized garment patterns [49].…”