A quantification of the preferred ease allowance for the men’s formal jacket patterns

The objective of this study was to develop a new method of designing ergonomically shaped men’s jackets that perfectly adapt to the customer’s body shape and style (i.e. custom made jackets). The study included 10 adult subjects who prefer to wear formal jackets to work. These subjects underwent 3D scans, and the images were used to execute the study objective. The constructive balance values of men’s jacket patterns were determined by considering the characteristics of the subject’s torso and preferred style. The longitudinal contours of the torso were described by parabolic equations, which were solved with the Gauss method. The obtained value of the constructive balance (1.5 ÷ 3 cm) was used to design jackets using a particular module of Gemini CADs, which allows the mathematical relations between the positions of specific points on the contour of a men’s jacket to be expressed. The pieces are designed in Gemini’s geometric layer. The designer can establish the mathematical relations based on his/her pattern-making competencies and human body and garment evaluation results. In a 3D virtual environment (Lectra-Modaris 3D), the customer’s avatars were dressed with the same jacket model but with different bust lines and various widths on the lateral side. The bust line level was established by using the backside length (measured from the seven-vertebra until the armpit level) and an allowance value, which was established after the human body backside curvature, garment silhouette, number of layers, etc. were analysed. Two variants of the jacket model were designed: a regular- and a medium-fit at the bust level (the value of the constructive bust allowance was 7 ÷ 10 cm). The garment position on the body was evaluated by studying its relative displacement when the avatar performed regular movements (moving his upper limbs). Thirteen cases were considered significant and used to analyse the jacket hemline relative displacement (relative to its horizontal position). These cases were analysed with factorial programming and a rotatable compound central programme with two independent variables. The best shape, size and position of the jacket on the virtual body were determined for the following situation: the value of the backside allowance (longitudinal direction) was between 1.6 and 4 cm, and the width of the jacket on the lateral side was calculated with the percentage of the constructive bust allowance ranging from 49% to 51%. With these parameters, the garment appears to fit the body well.

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“…The way in which multilayer fitted garments are designed and sized in the support area has a significant impact on its balance and appearance. 16…”

Section: Torso Evaluationmentioning

confidence: 99%

A new approach to determining the constructive balance for the design of customised patterns of men garments

Avădanei

Olaru

Dulgheriu

et al. 2021

Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics

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“…This design makes possible by using stretchy materials that can stretch beyond the skin's surface length increase by movement. Stretchy materials provide an advantage in meeting mobility and appearance suitability, 2,12 which tend to conflict with each other in non-elastomeric clothes. 13,14 Among conventional leggings patternmaking methods, the method proposed by Armstrong 8 for leotards reduced 1 inch for waist girth and hip girth, 1/2 inches for knee girth and hemline girth, 3 inches for pants length, 5/4 inches of fixed amounts for body rise, and calculated hip girth/12 inches for front crotch width addition, and hip girth/12+3/4 inches for back crotch width addition.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Corresponding measurement-based patternmaking method for leggings using three-dimensional body scanning technology

Kim

Choi

2023

Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics

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Based on 3D body scanning, this study developed the corresponding measurement-based patternmaking (CMP) method for leggings that could systematically provide an excellent fit and control tightness for different body parts. The CMP method for leggings was qualitatively validated by comparing the fit suitability of the produced leggings prototypes through a wear test. The results suggest that the CMP method is an option to design leggings with outstanding suitability in terms of appearance satisfaction, size satisfaction, compression satisfaction, usefulness in movement, ease of movement, ease in donning and doffing for different body parts. In particular, the graduated application percentage (GAP) provided an advantage in usefulness in movement, while the fixed application percentage (FAP) showed an advantage in ease in donning and doffing. As such, this study suggests selecting the CMP method of the application percentage (AP) depending on the purpose of use. This study demonstrated that the proposed method ensured validity in directly implementing a leggings pattern with 3D body scanning and body measurement alone.

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“…As such, it makes clothing far from achieving the suitable ease and reflecting personalized body shapes (Cho et al, 2010;Roth et al, 2016). The ease allowance of ready-to-wear apparel without considering personal characteristics could be excessive or insufficient and led to dissatisfaction for the wearer (Kim et al, 2019).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…, 2016). The ease allowance of ready-to-wear apparel without considering personal characteristics could be excessive or insufficient and led to dissatisfaction for the wearer (Kim et al. , 2019).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Personalized garment pattern generation based on space vector and distance ease

Zhang

Guo

et al. 2023

IJCST

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PurposeConsidering only two-dimensional (2D) ease allowance cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) relationship between the position of clothing and the human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a method with a 3D space vector and corresponding distance ease to characterize fitting garments and then used to construct personalized clothing for similar shape body.Design/methodology/approachFirstly, a 3D scanner was used to obtain mannequin and fitted garment data, and 17 layers of cross-sections of the upper body were extracted. Then, 37 space vectors and corresponding space angles on each cross-section were obtained with the original point. Secondly, the detailed distance ease between the mannequin and garment was constructed due to the difference between garment vectors and body vectors. Thirdly, the distance ease mathematical models were achieved and used to calculate distance ease on a similar shape body. Additionally, the fit garment is constructed, and the garment pattern is altered by the geometric pattern alteration method.FindingsThe results show that 3D space vectors can explain the relationship between body skin and garment surface of the upper body properly. The distance ease is modeled by mathematic expressions and successfully used to make a new garment to fit a similar shape body.Originality/valueThe proposed method of constructing garments based on distance ease and 3D space vectors can create a fitted garment for a similar shape body effectively and accurately. It is useful for the personalized garment design and suitable for the manufacturing process.

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A quantification of the preferred ease allowance for the men’s formal jacket patterns

Cited by 8 publications

References 23 publications

A new approach to determining the constructive balance for the design of customised patterns of men garments

A new approach to determining the constructive balance for the design of customised patterns of men garments

Corresponding measurement-based patternmaking method for leggings using three-dimensional body scanning technology

Personalized garment pattern generation based on space vector and distance ease

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