Alongshore variability of the multiple barred coast of Terschelling, The Netherlands

Grunnet, Nicholas; Hoekstra, P.

doi:10.1016/s0025-3227(03)00336-0

Cited by 31 publications

(27 citation statements)

References 8 publications

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“…An established method for extracting sandbar morphometrics is by subtracting the mean profile over many years from the profile of interest to obtain a perturbation profile (Ruessink and Kroon, 1994;Plant et al, 1999;Grunnet and Hoekstra, 2004). Because mean profiles in the CRLC do not entirely eliminate bar-like features, we further smooth the mean profile with a loess smoother to remove features with cross-shore wavelengths less than 500 m (Plant et al, 2002).…”

Section: Bar Extractionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…An understanding of sandbar dynamics is important for coastal hazard and change prediction. Because these features can often dominate nearshore morphological variability, taking a large scale approach, by examining long duration and large-scale bathymetric data sets, can yield important insight into their characteristics and behavior (eg., Birkemeier, 1984;Lippmann et al, 1993;List and Terwindt, 1995;Grunnet and Hoekstra, 2004). Unfortunately, insitu measurements of nearshore bars have historically been relatively scarce due to the difficulty and expense of collecting such measurements.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Few studies are continued over long time scales and even fewer encompass large spatial scales (e.g. Plant et al, 1999;Wijnberg and Terwindt, 1995;Ruessink et al, 2003;Grunnet and Hoekstra, 2004;Pape et al, 2010).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Previous efforts have, in general, focused either on the net offshore migration (NOM) of sandbars or on classification systems for spatio-temporal variability. NOM has particularly intrigued the coastal community (Lippmann and Holman, 1990;Plant et al, 1999;Ruessink and Terwindt, 2000;Ruessink et al, 2003;Grunnet and Hoekstra, 2004;Ruessink et al, 2007;Pape et al, 2010;Kuriyama, 2012;Walstra et al, 2012;Wijnberg, 2002); studies have described and characterized the cycle of bar generation near the shoreline, offshore migration, and bar degeneration well seaward of the shoreline. Timescales and patterns of NOM have been documented at several coasts worldwide (e.g.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Timescales and patterns of NOM have been documented at several coasts worldwide (e.g. Lippmann et al, 1993;Grunnet and Hoekstra, 2004;Ruessink et al, 2003). Recent efforts have focused on modeling the processes responsible for interannual to decadal-scale bar behavior (e.g.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 4 more Smart Citations

Regional scale sandbar variability: Observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest

Leonardo

Ruggiero

2015

Continental Shelf Research

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Section: Bar Extractionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 3 more Smart Citations

Regional scale sandbar variability: Observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest

Leonardo

Ruggiero

2015

Continental Shelf Research

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Alongshore variability of cross‐shore bar behavior on a nontidal beach

Tătui

Vespremeanu‐Stroe

Ruessink

2016

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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We report on a 6‐year nearshore bathymetric dataset from the Danube Delta (Romanian Black Sea coast) that comprises 16 km of erosive, stable and accumulative low‐lying micro‐tidal beaches northward of Sf. Gheorghe arm mouth. Two to three two‐dimensional longshore sandbars exhibit a net multi‐annual cyclic (2.8–5.5 years) offshore migration (20–50 m yr−1) in a similar way to other coasts worldwide. Bar morphology and behavior on the sediment‐rich accretionary (dissipative) sector differ substantially from that on the erosive (intermediate) sector. Shoreface slope is the most important factor controlling sandbar number and behavior. It determines different wave‐breaking patterns in the surf zone, translated into different offshore sediment transport and bar zone widths along the study site. Additionally, sediment availability, as a result of the distance from the arm mouth and of the long‐term evolution of the coast, controls the sandbar volume variability. These are all ultimately reflected in the variations of sandbar migration rates and cycle periods. A non‐dimensional morpho‐sedimentary parameter is finally presented, which expresses the bar system change potential as offshore sediment transport potential across the bar zone. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

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Characterizing beach intertidal bar systems using multi‐annual LiDAR data

Miles

Ilic

Whyatt

et al. 2019

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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Intertidal bars are common in mesotidal/macrotidal low‐to‐moderate energy coastal environments and an understanding of their morphodynamics is important from the perspective of both coastal scientists and managers. However, previous studies have typically been limited by considering bar systems two‐dimensionally, or with very limited alongshore resolution. This article presents the first multi‐annual study of intertidal alongshore bars and troughs in a macrotidal environment using airborne LiDAR (light detection and ranging) data to extract three‐dimensional (3D) bar morphology at high resolution. Bar and trough positions are mapped along a 17.5 km stretch of coastline in the northwest of England on the eastern Irish Sea, using eight complete, and one partial, LiDAR surveys spanning 17 years. Typically, 3–4 bars are present, with significant obliquity identified in their orientation. This orientation mirrors the alignment of waves from the dominant south‐westerly direction of wave approach, undergoing refraction as they approach the shoreline. Bars also become narrower and steeper as they migrate onshore, in a pattern reminiscent of wave shoaling. This suggests that the configuration of the bars is being influenced by overlying wave activity. Net onshore migration is present for the entire coastline, though rates vary alongshore, and periods of offshore migration may occur locally, with greatest variability between northern and southern regions of the coastline. This work highlights the need to consider intertidal bar systems as 3D, particularly on coastlines with complex configurations and bathymetry, as localized studies of bar migration can overlook 3D behaviour. Furthermore, the wider potential of LiDAR data in enabling high‐resolution morphodynamic studies is clear, both within the coastal domain and beyond. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

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Alongshore variability of the multiple barred coast of Terschelling, The Netherlands

Cited by 31 publications

References 8 publications

Regional scale sandbar variability: Observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest

Regional scale sandbar variability: Observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest

Alongshore variability of cross‐shore bar behavior on a nontidal beach

Characterizing beach intertidal bar systems using multi‐annual LiDAR data

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