An integrated coastal modeling system for analyzing beach processes and beach restoration projects, SMC

González, M.; Medina, Raúl; González-Ondina, José M.; Osorio, Andrés F.; Méndez, Fernando J.; Garcı́a, E.

doi:10.1016/j.cageo.2006.12.005

Cited by 89 publications

(54 citation statements)

References 23 publications

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“…This section briefly describes the equations used in and the implementation of the SWAN and MOPLA (Gonz alez et al 2007) models, presenting the design of the numerical domains that are based on coastal and bathymetry data.…”

Section: Numerical Models Swan and Mopla: Description And Implementationmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The MOPLA model (Gonz alez et al 2007) is a numerical tool that allows the study of the morphological evolution of coastal areas. It is based on the study of individual processes of waves, currents, and sediment transport in a 2D horizontal (2DH) domain.…”

Section: B Mopla Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Section 2 describes the characteristics of the synoptic wind and instrumental data, which have been used as forcing for the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) numerical model (Zijlema 2010) and validation, respectively, paying special attention to the adaptation of high-resolution wind fields associated with hurricanes. Section 3 describes the use and implementation of both the SWAN and MOPLA (taken from the Spanish acronym for wave propagation model, current, and morphodynamics evolution of beaches) models (Gonz alez et al 2007). Section 4 presents the numerical wave propagation associated with Hurricane Gordon as it made its way toward the coast of C adiz.…”

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confidence: 99%

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Numerical Analysis and Diagnosis of the Hydrodynamic Effects Produced by Hurricane Gordon along the Coast of Spain

Diaz-Hernandez

Méndez

Mı́nguez

2014

Weather and Forecasting

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This paper presents a detailed hindcast for the generation and propagation of sea state variables-significant wave height H s , peak period T p , mean direction u, and spectral shape g -s -associated with cyclonic events to numerically diagnose their possible hydrodynamic effects over the northeastern Atlantic. An example of such cyclonic events is Hurricane Gordon, which occurred during the second half of August 2012. Extreme hurricane-strength winds produced new and atypically low-frequency (about 14 s) packs of energy. The preexistent wave spectrum suddenly experienced an addition of low-frequency energy along the coast of C adiz, Spain. This study presents the results of a comprehensive analysis developed to reconstruct the events produced by Hurricane Gordon (2012) along the coast of C adiz. The analysis features the use of (i) parametric models for the characterization of hurricane winds and pressure fields, (ii) implementation of the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model for the generation and propagation of waves in the northeast Atlantic Ocean, and (iii) its coupling with the MOPLA-taken from the Spanish acronym for wave propagation model, current, and morphodynamic evolution of beaches-model for the evaluation of longshore currents. The numerical wave characterization, generation, and propagation were validated with instrumental data from deep-water and coastal buoys.

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Section: Numerical Models Swan and Mopla: Description And Implementationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: B Mopla Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 99%

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Numerical Analysis and Diagnosis of the Hydrodynamic Effects Produced by Hurricane Gordon along the Coast of Spain

Diaz-Hernandez

Méndez

Mı́nguez

2014

Weather and Forecasting

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“…El análisis de largo plazo de planta de equilibrio se desarrolló con el programa computacional SMC (Sistema de Modelado Costero, González et al, 2007) cuya aplicación ha sido ampliamente validada internacionalmente (González & Medina, 2001;González et al, 2007;Lausman et al, 2010;Raabe et al, 2010). Para este análisis se utilizó la dirección del Flujo Medio de Energía (FME) del Oleaje tal como se expresa en las ecuaciones 1, 2, 3 y 4, a partir de una serie de oleaje de 19 años, reconstruida para un punto en el norte del islote Gorgonilla (donde el oleaje sufre la mayor difracción, Fig.…”

Section: Morfología De Playaunclassified

Evolucion geomorfologica y vegetacion costera de playa Palmeras, Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona, Pacifico Colombiano

Bernal

Urrego

Gómez-García

et al. 2014

lajar

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RESUMEN.Se realizó un estudio de la geomorfología y vegetación en playa Palmeras a partir del levantamiento de un modelo digital de elevación, mediciones sistemáticas de perfiles de playa durante 15 meses, análisis de la planta de equilibrio, mediciones de coberturas vegetales, conductividad eléctrica del agua de inundación y granulometría en 15 parcelas establecidas a lo largo de la playa. La playa se puede dividir en dos sectores. El sector NE se caracteriza por una forma en planta cóncava, cúspides de playa, mayor pendiente, mayor elevación, amplia zona seca, mayor variabilidad de la forma en planta y en perfil y mayor tendencia a la acreción, con vegetación herbácea dominada por Rhynchospora polystachys. El sector SW tiene una forma en planta convexa, es menos elevado, el ancho de zona seca es mínimo, la variabilidad de la planta y perfil son menores y tiende a la erosión. La vegetación herbácea en este sector está dominada por Sphagneticola trilobata y hay mayor proporción de palmas muertas. Aunque la longitud de las observaciones limita las conclusiones sobre la variabilidad estacional e interanual de la playa, la cota de inundación aumenta en la época húmeda y hay mayor pérdida de sedimentos. Asimismo, durante años El Niño se evidenció un incremento de la energía del oleaje, que estaría asociado con erosión costera. En el largo plazo hay evidencias de un cambio en la dirección del oleaje y una basculación de la playa con acreción hacia el NE y erosión hacia el SW. Palabras clave: islas rocosas, playas de bolsillo, geomorfología, vegetación de playa, Pacífico tropical oriental. Geomorphological evolution and coastal vegetation of Palmeras BeachGorgona Island National Natural Park, Colombian Pacific ABSTRACT. A study of the geomorphology and vegetation in Palmeras Beach was conducted from a digital elevation model, systematic measurements of beach profiles for 15 months, analysis of equilibrium shape and measurements of vegetation, electric conductivity of the floodwater and granulometry at 15 parcels established along the beach. The beach can be divided into two sectors. The NE is characterized by a concave shape, beach cusps, steeper slope, higher elevation, wider dry zone, greater variability of the shape in plan and profile, greater tendency for accretion and herbaceous vegetation dominated by Rhynchospora polystachys. The SW sector has a convex shape, lower elevation, minimal dry zone width, lower variability of the plan and profile, its shape tends to erosion. The herbaceous vegetation is dominated by Sphagneticola trilobata and it has a higher proportion of dead palms. Although the length of the observations limits the conclusions on the seasonal and interannual variability of the beach, in the wet season there is loss of sand and the sea level rises. Also during El Niño years increased wave energy, which could be associated with coastal erosion was evident. In the long term, there is evidence of a change in wave direction and a tilting of the beach with accretion to the NE and erosion to the SW.

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“…Finally, in order to provide an order of magnitude of the time necessary to reach the previously mentioned recession, the response of the profile to storm waves was determined by PETRA model (Gonzalez et al, 2007) (Fig. 13).…”

Section: Slope Erosion Temporal Evolutionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Study of Cliff Shoreline Erosion

Gómez-Pina

Muñoz-Pérez²,

Figueres³

et al. 2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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In this paper the cliff shoreline erosion on the coastline between Punta Montijo and the Chipiona Port (Cadiz, Spain) is studied. The reasons which cause this erosive phenomenon and the future erosive tendency of these cliffs are estimated, obtaining magnitudes of recession and the rate at which it will occur. Analysis of the current situation has been carried out by determining its plan shape, the study of the theoretical erosion profile of the cliffs and the verification of their failure. The future evolution of the cliffs shoreline has been analysed through the simulation of its recession and the study of the profile response to storm wave action. Finally, is presented a model to estimate the recession of the cliff shoreline.

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An integrated coastal modeling system for analyzing beach processes and beach restoration projects, SMC

Cited by 89 publications

References 23 publications

Numerical Analysis and Diagnosis of the Hydrodynamic Effects Produced by Hurricane Gordon along the Coast of Spain

Numerical Analysis and Diagnosis of the Hydrodynamic Effects Produced by Hurricane Gordon along the Coast of Spain

Evolucion geomorfologica y vegetacion costera de playa Palmeras, Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona, Pacifico Colombiano

Study of Cliff Shoreline Erosion

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