Antifaltencremes

Abstract

As youth and perception of beauty are considered to be of great importance, an increasing number of new cosmeceuticals have been developed in recent years. This article will describe new, evidence-based ingredients against skin-aging; in particular antioxidants (e.g. vitamin C, niacinamide, different polyphenols and flavonoids) and cell regulators (e.g. retinol, different peptides and growth factors. Important parameters for the quality of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are evidence-based in-vivo and in-vitro efficacy as well as scientifically approved wanted and unwanted effects.

Skin anti-aging strategies

“…The water-soluble, heat-labile local L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in concentrations between 5 and 15% was proven to have a skin anti-aging effect by inducing the production of Col-1, and Col-3, as well as enzymes important for the production of collagen, and inhibitors of matrixmetalloproteinase (MMP) 1 (collagenase 1) 43 , 53 . Clinical studies have proven that the antioxidative protection is higher with the combination of vitamins C and E than with the vitamin C or E alone 54 , 55 . Niacinamide (vitamin B 3 ) regulates cell metabolism and regeneration, and it is used in 5% concentration as an anti-aging agent 56 .…”

“…Niacinamide (vitamin B 3 ) regulates cell metabolism and regeneration, and it is used in 5% concentration as an anti-aging agent 56 . In some studies, improvement of skin elasticity, erythema and pigmentations after 3 mo of topical treatment has been observed 52 , 54 . Vitamin E (α-tocopherol) used as a component of skin products has anti-inflammatory and antiproliferative effects in concentrations between 2 and 20%.…”