Artemisia Naphta: A novel oil extract for sensitive and acne prone skin

Abstract

Background: The plant Artemisia annua has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for many years. Rich in bioactive molecules, the A. annua plant is used to extract the anti-malaria compound artemisinin (< 1%), which results in most of the plant being unutilized. One byproduct of artemisinin extraction is artemisia naphtha (AN), which has yet to be studied extensively. Aims: Study the activity of a novel AN oil extract against microbes, pro-inflammatory cytokines, and dermatological endpoints that are key for eczema and acne pathogenesis to determine if an effective A. annua extract for these skin conditions can be developed. Methods: Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry was performed to determine the composition of AN oil. P. acnes, S. aureus, M. furfur, and C. albicans were cultured to determine minimal inhibitory concentration. in vitro studies utilizing keratinocytes and macrophages were treated with AN oil and gene expression measured by quantitative RT-PCR. A 13-subject clinical trial was performed with 1% AN oil Gel to assess its potential benefits for sensitive and acne prone skin. Results: AN oil upregulates filaggrin gene expression and possesses antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity inhibiting LPS, S. aureus and "Th2 induced" pro-inflammatory mediator release (IL-6, IL-8 and TSLP). Clinical assessment of 1% AN Gel shows it reduces acne blemishes and the appearance of redness. Conclusion: Previously an underutilized and unpurified byproduct, AN is now the source to develop the first topical AN oil for cosmetic use with an activity profile that suggests it is effective for those with sensitive and/or acne prone skin.

Novel anti-inflammatory Artemisia Naphta oil extract efficacious in in vivo mouse models of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis

“…Our initial in vitro biological characterization of AN oil extract (from A. annua, artemisinin-free) yielded intriguing results for its potential use to treat in ammatory skin disorders. Speci cally, for AD, AN oil extract previously demonstrated the ability to inhibit S. aureus growth as well as S. aureus-induced TSLP, which is linked to AD skin pruritus (10). Moreover, AN oil extract was shown to increase laggrin, an essential gene in the formation of the epidermal barrier, and reduce Th2 cytokine-induced IL-8 production in normal human epidermal keratinocytes.…”

“…Given that AN oil extract inhibited Th-17A response in vitro, which plays an important role in psoriasis (Fig. 1), and previously demonstrating downregulation of TSLP in macrophages (10), also linked to psoriasis and AD, we sought to determine if AN oil extract would be effective when applied topically in vivo. Several animal models mimicking human psoriasis have been developed and utilized.…”

“…Characterization of this AN oil extract found that its most abundant bioactive molecules were camphor, camphene, p-cymene, eucolyptol and D-limonene (7)(8)(9), previously reported to provide bene ts to the skin. Subsequent in vitro studies for AN oil extract utilizing normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) and mouse macrophages demonstrated anti-in ammatory activity (reduction of Interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8 and thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP)), upregulation of laggrin, and antibacterial activity inhibiting the growth of C. acnes and S. aureus (10). Lastly, a 1% AN oil extract gel formulation was applied topically to human subjects and was well tolerated and effective for sensitive and acne prone skin (10), further suggesting it's potential for treating in ammatory skin disease.…”

“…Subsequent in vitro studies for AN oil extract utilizing normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) and mouse macrophages demonstrated anti-in ammatory activity (reduction of Interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8 and thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP)), upregulation of laggrin, and antibacterial activity inhibiting the growth of C. acnes and S. aureus (10). Lastly, a 1% AN oil extract gel formulation was applied topically to human subjects and was well tolerated and effective for sensitive and acne prone skin (10), further suggesting it's potential for treating in ammatory skin disease. Downregulation of laggrin (11), TSLP production (12) and Staphylococcus aureus overgrowth (13) have all been previously reported to be major players in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD) and itch.…”

The Role of Artemisia in Acne Vulgaris : A Review

“…Ekstrak Artemisia mampu menghambat pelepasan IL-6 yang diinduksi oleh LPS-TLR4. (25) Yang akhirnya dapat menekan proses inflamasi pada akne vulgaris.…”