Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long‐term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin

Abstract

Skin ageing is a complex process determined by the genetic endowment of individual and environmental factors, such as sun exposure. The effects of skin ageing are mostly encountered in the superficial dermis and in the epidermis. We have previously demonstrated in vivo the beneficial effect of a topically applied formula of 5% vitamin C in the treatment of skin ageing. Another active compound, madecassoside extracted from Centella asiatica, known to induce collagen expression and/or to modulate inflammatory mediators, might thus prevent and correct some signs of ageing. A randomized double-blind study was carried out on photoaged skin of 20 female volunteers to investigate the effects of topically applied 5% vitamin C and 0.1% madecassoside on the clinical, biophysical and structural skin properties. After 6 months of treatment, we observed a significant improvement of the clinical score for deep and superficial wrinkles, suppleness, firmness, roughness and skin hydration. These results were corroborated by measurements of skin elasticity and semi-quantitative histological assessment of the elastic fibre network in the papillary dermis. Two-thirds of the subjects showed an improvement. The re-appearance of a normally structured elastic fibre network was observed. Our results revealed a functional and structural remodelling of chronically sun-damaged skin.

Oral Supplementation of Specific Collagen Peptides Has Beneficial Effects on Human Skin Physiology: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study

“…The fact that this positive effect was still detectable at the end of the 4-week washout phase suggests a long-lasting dermal physiological effect. These findings are in contrast to topical products which should be mostly effective in the skin ageing-encountered superficial dermis and epidermis [36], where improved skin elasticity is predominantly caused by an increase in epidermal hydration [37,38]. Xhauflaire-Uhoda et al [39] investigated anti-wrinkle effects of topically used skin care products.…”

Anti-Aging Cosmetics Approaches and Components in Products

“…Vitamin B3, %5 konsantrasyonda yaşlanma karşıtı olarak kullanılmaktadır 40 . Cilt elastikliği, eritemi ve pigmentasyonu üzerinde etkili olduğu görülmüştür 37,38,41 . Vitamin E % 2-20 konsantrasyonlarında kullanılmaktadır.…”

Development of Natural Cosmeceuticals: Harnessing Asia's Biodiversity

“…They postulated that the mechanism of induction of type I collagen synthesis by asiaticoside is through the activation of TβRI kinase-independent Smad pathway. The research studies on the collagen synthesis ability of C. asiatica prompted Haftek et al (2008) to perform a clinical study on the effect of 0.1% madecassoside and 5% vitamin C on photo-aging. They obtained promising results where two-thirds of the subjects showed functional and structural remodelling of chronically sun-damaged skin after 6 months of treatment.…”