BACKGROUNDThe natural fermentation of multispecies microbial communities is responsible for unique flavors of winery regions of the eastern foothills of the Ningxia Helan Mountains in China. However, the participation of different microorganisms in the metabolic network for the development of important flavor substances is not clearly defined. Microbial population and diversity on different fermentation phases of Ningxia wine were analyzed by metagenomic sequencing approach.RESULTSGas chromatography–mass spectrometry and ion chromatography were used to identify flavor components, and 13 esters, 13 alcohols, nine aldehydes and seven ketones were detected in volatile substances with odor activity values > 1, and eight organic acids were detected as important flavor components in young wine. Thus, 52 238 predicted protein‐coding genes from 24 genera were identified in the Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes level 2 pathways of global and overview maps, and the genes were primarily involved in amino acid metabolism and carbohydrate metabolism. Major microbial genera (Saccharomyces, Tatumella, Hanseniaspora, Lactobacillus, and Lachancea) were closely related to self‐characteristic compound metabolism and further contributed to wine flavor.CONCLUSIONThis study clarifies the different metabolic roles of microorganisms in flavor formation during Ningxia wine spontaneous fermentation. Saccharomyces, dominant fungi involved in glycolysis and pyruvate metabolism, produces not only ethanol but also two important precursors, pyruvate and acetyl‐CoA, which are necessary for the tricarboxylic acid cycle, fatty acid metabolism, amino acid metabolism, and flavor formation. Lactobacillus and Lachancea, dominant bacteria involved in lactic acid metabolism. Tatumella, dominant bacteria involved in amino acid metabolism, fatty acid metabolism, and acetic acid metabolism to produce esters in the Shizuishan City region samples. These findings provide insights into the use of local functional strains to generate unique flavor formation, as well as improved stability and quality, in wine production. © 2023 Society of Chemical Industry.