Dynamics of lockstitch sewing process

Abstract

During high speed sewing, the needle thread is exposed to dynamic loading, short strike loading, inertia forces, friction, rubbing, force of check spring, bending, pressure, friction, impact, shock and thermal influence. The dynamic thread loading/tension alters throughout the stitch formation cycle and along its passage through the machine. The greatest tensile force occurs at the moment of stitch stretching, when the take up lever pulls for required thread length through the tension regulator. These stresses act on the thread repeatedly and the thread passes 50-80 times through the fabric, the needle eye and the bobbin case mechanism, before getting incorporated into the seam, which result in upto 40% loss in tensile strength of the sewing thread. This damage in the sewing thread adversely affects its processing and functional performance. In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, passage through needle and fabric, and bobbin thread interaction in the loss in tensile properties has been studied. It is observed that the loss in tensile properties occurs mainly due to the bobbin thread interaction. Dynamic loading due to the action of take up lever also causes substantial loss in tenacity and breaking elongation of cotton threads.