Elevating Skincare Science: Grape Seed-Extract Encapsulation for Dermatological Care

Abstract

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and serves multiple functions such as barrier protection and thermoregulation. The maintenance of its integrity and healthy structure is of paramount importance. Accordingly, technological advances in cosmetic sciences have been directed towards optimizing these factors. Plant-derived ingredients have been explored for their bioactivity profiles and sustainable sources. Grape by-products carry a group of bioactive molecules that display important biological activities. Nonetheless, many of these molecules (e.g., phenolic compounds) are unstable and susceptible to degradation. So, its encapsulation using nano/microsystems (i.e. liposomes) has been explored as a promising solution. In this work, two grape seed extracts were obtained, one from a single grape variety (GSE-Ov), and another from a mix of five grape varieties (GSE-Sv). These extracts were analysed for their antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, as well as for their chemical composition and molecular structure. The extract that showed the most promising properties was the GSE-Ov with a DPPH IC50 of 0.079 mg.mL-1. This extract was encapsulated in soy lecithin liposomes coated with pectin, with an encapsulation efficiency of 88.8%. These showed an in vitro release of polyphenols of 59.4% during 24 h. The particles displayed a zeta potential of -20.3 mV, and an average diameter of 13.6 µm. Loaded liposomes proved to be safe under 5 and 2.5 mg.mL-1, in HaCaT and HDF cell models, respectively. Additionally, they demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity against IL-1α when tested at 2 mg.mL-1. This work enabled the valorization of a by-product from the wine industry, by using natural extracts in skincare products.