Expert‐based customized pattern‐making automation: Part I. Basic patterns

Abstract

PurposeThis paper aims to present a flattening method for developing 2D basic patterns from 3D designed garments. The method incorporates the techniques of professional pattern development for the purpose of pattern‐making automation. The aims of the flattening method are to improve the dressing suitability and to produce pleasing figures by reversing design procedures.Design/methodology/approachA flattening method is presented in this paper for developing 3D undevelopable NURBS surfaces in 2D. The automatic operation embeds the expertise of pattern makers by reducing total area differences between the designed garments in 3D styles and the two‐dimensional patterns. Basic pattern‐making invokes the boundary constraints which apply mesh alignments techniques.FindingsThe global area difference between the original 3D designs and the 2D‐developed pattern is controlled within 5 percent in order to reach the final outcomes of basic patterns, whose shapes are similar to the drawing patterns currently utilized in the industry.Research limitations/implicationsThis study currently handles simple designs, such as basal designs, and can only flatten garments in symmetric styles. The direct flattening method is developed by this study. In addition, this study is supplemented by expert‐based knowledge, and it establishes basic boundary conditions for various garment patterns to increase the feasibility of flattening automation.Originality/valueThis study introduces the fundamental theories and methodologies used in the automatic making of basic patterns from 3D garment designs. It proposes a flattening method with pattern expertise embedded by real‐time approximations of the global area of the 3D undevelopable designs to the 2D patterns.

A Hybrid System Based on Neural Network and Immune Co-Evolutionary Algorithm for Garment Pattern Design Optimization

“…4The fourth is related to expert system, which has been embodied into almost all studies above. In [13], the study introduces the fundamental theories and methodologies used in the automatic making of basic patterns from 3D garment designs.…”

“…The 2D/3D mapping system tries to generate 2D shapes from 3D human model [5]. The rulebased expert system is another way to support utilizing the experience [6,13]. All of these researches try to generate 2D garment pattern by a mapping to predefined stereotypes.…”

“…We set gen p with 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 to test how the generation number affects the error rate defined in Eq. (13). In Figure 8, the Box plot depicts ( ) err ⋅ in every 10 runs.…”

How to integrate recent development in technology with Digital Prototype textile and apparel applications

“…In 2008, [12] proposed an interactive co-evolutionary CAD system for GPD (ICE-GCAD) because they believed traditional CAD (Computer-Aided Design) methods in garment pattern design (GPD) fail to utilise the knowledge of experts for inexperienced designers. Moreover, the study of [13] aimed to reduce the time and human resource costs involved in the process of garment development and to pursue the objectives of fittingness of clothing and the display of graceful figures by reversing design procedures. They presented a knowledge-based system with a flattening method for developing 2D basic patterns from 3D designed garments.…”

3D CAD systems for the clothing industry

“…For the fashion zone they followed the CAD technique without considering the body geometry, rather considering the aesthetic appearance of the garment. Fang et al (2008aFang et al ( , 2008b proposed a clothing design process which covers both the "3D to 2D" and "2D to 3D" approaches. They demonstrated the creation of 3D upper body garment designs on a virtual mannequin made from body scan data.…”