Eye Cosmeceutical Formulations with Roasted Coffee Oil in Free and Microencapsulated Forms: Development and Preliminary Stability Study

Abstract

This research aims to develop eye cosmeceutical formulations with roasted coffee oil. Oil is used in form and microencapsulated forms. A preliminary stability study is performed, and base formulation (BF) is used for comparison. All formulations are stable and firm. Formulations with oil in free (OF) or microencapsulated (MOF) form show color and aroma of coffee. Initially, MOF is the most acid, and BF shows the highest peroxide value (PV) and the lowest sun protection factor (SPF) values and no antioxidant activity (AA). OF and MOF show AA and high SPF ; these parameters are little affected by storage, and an increase in PV is observed only for BF. Cosmeceutical formulations with roasted coffee oil present stability and good potential for dermocosmetic products. Practical Applications: Coffee oil is known for its AA and protection against sunlight UV radiation, so it fits the interest of cosmetics and personal care producers for bioactive ingredients from natural sources. The cosmetics industry uses green coffee oil; however, roasted coffee oil is of more interest since it is a coproduct of the soluble coffee industry. The authors are unaware of studies proposing the use of microcapsules (produced by complex coacervation) of roasted coffee oil in cosmeceutical formulations.

Efficacy of the association of formulation with Coffea canephora extract and phonophoresis against gynoid lipodystrophy in women population: development, characterization and clinical study

“…The antioxidant activity of GCE evaluated by ABTS was 45.4 g of Trolox/100 g. Thus, the high antioxidant activity values of the GCE are highlighted, attributed to the active ingredients in the C. canephora and process used (lyophilized) that contributed to the maintenance of the bioactives. A study carried out by Boger et al (2022) also confirms these results.…”

“…Determined amounts of aliquots were withdrawn and filtered (Millex 0.45 µm) and proceed with sample injection (20 µl loop) by High Performance Liquid Chromatography analysis. Chromatographic conditions: mobile phase (water: methanol; 80:20), 40°C, mobile phase flow (1 mL/min), injection volume (20 µL), chromatographic column Agilent Scalar C18 4.6 x 100 mm, 5 mm (Part Number 449905-902), and UV/VIS detector at 272 nm (Boger et al, 2022).…”

Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by‐products as active ingredients in cosmetics

“…Cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing coffee are added to aqueous or oily extracts produced from green or roasted coffee beans and coffee by-products [18,19]. These extracts are sources of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids (CGA), xanthines, such as caffeine and trigonelline, fatty acids and unsaponifiable matter (UM) (such as diterpenes and tocopherols), which have shown positive effects on skin care [20,21]. These compounds can be incorporated into different cosmetic formulations, such as creams, body oils, gels, lotions, soaps, shampoos, masks, and other types of formulations, to be applied on different parts of the body [22].…”

“…Coffee oil is mainly composed of glycerides, fatty acids, compounds of the UM (such as diterpenes and tocopherols), and the presence of compounds such as caffeine, and phenolics, such as chlorogenic acid, has also been described. Coffee oil has a high proportion of UM, atypical for other vegetable oils, hence one of the reasons for its interest in cosmetics [21,47].…”

“…The formulation employs coffee bean oil, which contains polyphenols, chlorogenic acid, fatty acids and UM (tocopherols and diterpenes), which are antioxidant and anti-inflammatory substances. The coffee lipstick can also relieve the symptoms of cheilitis and improve the water content in the lips [21,51].…”