Freezing Weakens the Barrier Function of Reconstructed Human Epidermis as Evidenced by Raman Spectroscopy and Percutaneous Permeation

Dancik, Yuri; Kichou, Hichem; Eklouh‐Molinier, Christophe; Soucé, Martin; Munnier, Emilie; Chourpa, Igor; Bonnier, Franck

doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics12111041

Cited by 10 publications

(12 citation statements)

References 60 publications

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“…The time‐dependent permeation of caffeine was followed over 12 h. At specific time intervals (every 30 min from 0.5 to 2.5 h then every 60 min from 3 h until the end of the experiment), the 2 mL of receptor medium was collected for analysis by High‐Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) (see section 2.7). Following collection of the receptor fluid, each RHE was immediately transferred to a new well filled with 2 mL of fresh receptor medium (D‐PBS) [17].…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound‐based emulsifier‐free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin

Kichou

Dancik

Eklouh‐Molinier

et al. 2022

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High‐frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions. Methods The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared. Results The ES‐free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2‐fold lower average droplet size and over 3‐fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady‐state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%–30% only. Conclusion This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients‐wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.

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Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Permeation experiments were performed with RHE membranes directly in their culture inserts placed in the 12‐well plates to reduce handling of samples, as in previously published studies [17]. For the purpose of this study, D‐PBS was used as the receptor medium.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound‐based emulsifier‐free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin

Kichou

Dancik

Eklouh‐Molinier

et al. 2022

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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“…However, the limited availability of fresh human skin leads to the use of defrosted skin. However, the latter is known for showing a low barrier function compared with human skin in vivo [ 136 ]. In the case of SDDS, it would be important to demonstrate that both the pH, redox potential and enzymatic activity are comparable to the skin in vivo.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Polymer-Based Smart Drug Delivery Systems for Skin Application and Demonstration of Stimuli-Responsiveness

et al. 2021

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Progress in recent years in the field of stimuli-responsive polymers, whose properties change depending on the intensity of a signal, permitted an increase in smart drug delivery systems (SDDS). SDDS have attracted the attention of the scientific community because they can help meet two current challenges of the pharmaceutical industry: targeted drug delivery and personalized medicine. Controlled release of the active ingredient can be achieved through various stimuli, among which are temperature, pH, redox potential or even enzymes. SDDS, hitherto explored mainly in oncology, are now developed in the fields of dermatology and cosmetics. They are mostly hydrogels or nanosystems, and the most-used stimuli are pH and temperature. This review offers an overview of polymer-based SDDS developed to trigger the release of active ingredients intended to treat skin conditions or pathologies. The methods used to attest to stimuli-responsiveness in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo are discussed.

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“…The observed retention time was 4.14 min for resorcinol. For each concentration, the area under the peak was calculated and used for the calibration curve [38]. Each day, calibration curves were done in triplicate.…”

Section: Hplc Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

Estimating the Analytical Performance of Raman Spectroscopy for Quantification of Active Ingredients in Human Stratum Corneum

et al. 2022

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Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) has become a versatile technique that can be applied routinely to monitor skin penetration of active molecules. In the present study, CRM coupled to multivariate analysis (namely PLSR—partial least squares regression) is used for the quantitative measurement of an active ingredient (AI) applied to isolated (ex vivo) human stratum corneum (SC), using systematically varied doses of resorcinol, as model compound, and the performance is quantified according to key figures of merit defined by regulatory bodies (ICH, FDA, and EMA). A methodology is thus demonstrated to establish the limit of detection (LOD), precision, accuracy, sensitivity (SEN), and selectivity (SEL) of the technique, and the performance according to these key figures of merit is compared to that of similar established methodologies, based on studies available in literature. First, principal components analysis (PCA) was used to examine the variability within the spectral data set collected. Second, ratios calculated from the area under the curve (AUC) of characteristic resorcinol and proteins/lipids bands (1400–1500 cm−1) were used to perform linear regression analysis of the Raman spectra. Third, cross-validated PLSR analysis was applied to perform quantitative analysis in the fingerprint region. The AUC results show clearly that the intensities of Raman features in the spectra collected are linearly correlated to resorcinol concentrations in the SC (R2 = 0.999) despite a heterogeneity in the distribution of the active molecule in the samples. The Root Mean Square Error of Cross-Validation (RMSECV) (0.017 mg resorcinol/mg SC), The Root Mean Square of Prediction (RMSEP) (0.015 mg resorcinol/mg SC), and R2 (0.971) demonstrate the reliability of the linear regression constructed, enabling accurate quantification of resorcinol. Furthermore, the results have enabled the determination, for the first time, of numerical criteria to estimate analytical performances of CRM, including LOD, precision using bias corrected mean square error prediction (BCMSEP), sensitivity, and selectivity, for quantification of the performance of the analytical technique. This is one step further towards demonstrating that Raman spectroscopy complies with international guidelines and to establishing the technique as a reference and approved tool for permeation studies.

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Freezing Weakens the Barrier Function of Reconstructed Human Epidermis as Evidenced by Raman Spectroscopy and Percutaneous Permeation

Cited by 10 publications

References 60 publications

Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound‐based emulsifier‐free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin

Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound‐based emulsifier‐free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin

Polymer-Based Smart Drug Delivery Systems for Skin Application and Demonstration of Stimuli-Responsiveness

Estimating the Analytical Performance of Raman Spectroscopy for Quantification of Active Ingredients in Human Stratum Corneum

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