Grain alignment: effects on fabric and garment drape

Orzada, Belinda T.; Moore, Mary Ann; Collier, Billie J.

doi:10.1108/09556229710175515

Cited by 6 publications

(8 citation statements)

References 13 publications

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“…Collier (1991) reported that a higher drape value obtained on the Drape Tester corresponds to a lower shear value, giving a negative correlation. Orzada et al (1997) found negative correlations between drape values obtained on Collier's Drape Tester and shear and bending properties determined on the Kawabata equipment. Hu and Chan (1998) conducted a comprehensive study of the relationship between drape coefficient and all the mechanical properties measured by the KES-F system.…”

Section: Fabric Mechanical Properties Related To Drapementioning

confidence: 82%

Effect of laundering on fabric drape, bending and shear

Orzada

Moore

Collier

et al. 2009

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

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Purpose -The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of laundering on the drape, shear, and bending properties of bottom weight fabrics. Design/methodology/approach -Six bottom-weight 100 percent cotton fabrics were included. Collier's Drape Tester was utilized to obtain drape values. Bending and shear values were measured on the KES-F Shear Tester and the Pure Bending Tester. Three laundering cycles (unlaundered, one and five home launderings) following AATCC methods were explored. Findings -Laundry cycle did not have a significant effect on fabric drape, shear or bending properties. However, drape values increased overall, while shear and bending modulus and hysteresis decreased, resulting in a more drapable, pliable fabric after five laundry cycles. Research limitations/implications -Future research examining a wider variety of fabrics and conducting a greater number of laundry cycles to approximate an average yearly number of laundry cycles is recommended. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed. Originality/value -Objective measurement of drape and fabric mechanical properties related to drape after laundry treatments would assist the apparel manufacturer in developing laundry recommendations based on the fabric's performance and in selecting fabrics which maintain their drape characteristics, mechanical properties, and dimensional stability with use. Higher quality garments with increased consumer satisfaction would result.

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Section: Fabric Mechanical Properties Related To Drapementioning

confidence: 82%

Effect of laundering on fabric drape, bending and shear

Orzada

Moore

Collier

et al. 2009

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

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“…Recognizing the limited research in this crucial area of apparel manufacturing, Orzada, Moore, and Collier (1997) examined the effect of grain alignment on fabric drape and shear properties of five 100% cotton, twill-weave fabrics. Significant positive correlations between tilt amounts and shear values as measured on the Kawabata Shear Tester were revealed.…”

Section: Objective Measurement and Grain Orientation In Apparel Manufmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of Grain Alignment on Fabric Mechanical Properties

Orzada

2001

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal

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This study was designed to measure the effect of grain alignment on selected fabric physical and mechanical properties. Kawabata's Shear Tester and Pure Bending Tester were used to assess shear and bending properties of 19 apparel fabrics. Fabric samples were cut at six different grain alignment variations. Shear properties were more sensitive than bending properties to variations in grain alignment. Significant positive correlations were identified between tilt and shear stiffness and hysteresis measurements. Although bending modulus and hysteresis values were not significantly related to tilt, a trend toward decreased bending values with increased tilt angles was observed. Results confirm a previous study by Orzada, Moore, and Collier (1997).

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“…In the garment test, 12 skirts were ranked by the researcher according to the tilt degree. Advanced judges had higher agreement between themselves and with the researcher's rank and sensitivity than less experienced individuals [124].…”

Section: Commented [R80]mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…There should be a correlation found between the tilt angle and the drape behaviour (as it presumed in text books as mentioned in this paper). So extending this study with a wider range of fabrics was suggested [124].…”

Section: Grain Alignmentmentioning

confidence: 99%