Cichorium intybus root extract: A “vitamin D-like” active ingredient to improve skin barrier function

Abstract

During the aging process, the human skin suffers many alterations including dryness, skin barrier function damage. The skin barrier function is important to the prevention of skin alterations and maintenance of homeostasis. So, the objective of this study was to assess the clinical efficacy on skin barrier function of Cichorium intybus root extract in cosmetic formulations with or without UV filters. Fifty women, aged between 45 and 60 years, were divided into two groups. One group received vehicle formulations containing UV filters, and the other group received formulations without UV filters. Both groups received a formulation containing the extract and the vehicle. The formulations were applied twice daily to the upper arms after washing with sodium lauryl sulphate. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin microrelief were evaluated before and after a 14- and 28-day period of treatment. The control regions and regions where the vehicles were applied showed an increase in the TEWL. For the formulations containing the extract, decreased TEWL and improved microrelief were observed when compared to the vehicle and control areas after a 28-day period. In conclusion, Cichorium intybus root extract showed protective and restructuring effects on the skin and stands out as an innovative ingredient to improve skin barrier function.

Immediate and long term effects of a cosmetic formulation with Cichorium intybus root extract

“…The present findings thus support a previous study of our group. Maia Campos et al (6) used SDS solution to reduce the natural level of skin hydration. After 28 days of treatment with Cichorium intybus root extract based formulation, the TEWL was decreased and the skin microrelief was improved.…”

“…This binding affects the transcription of target genes that regulate cellular proliferation and differentiation (9) . In addition, the clinical efficacy of this active ingredient in the improvement of skin barrier function has been demonstrated by Maia Campos et al (6) . In this context, the aim of this study was to evaluate the sensory properties and protective effects on skin hydraIntrodução A pele seca (xerosis) é caracterizada como uma superfí-cie de pele áspera e finamente descamante.…”

“…Além disso, a síntese de Vitamina D e de seu receptor diminui com a redução da exposição ao sol e com o envelhecimento. Assim, o uso de produtos cosméticos com Vitamina D pode ajudar a melhorar as condições da pele (6) . Outro estudo mostrou que ratos que não possuem receptores de Vitamina D apresentam diferenciação epidérmica defeituosa que se manifesta como níveis reduzidos de involucrina e loricrina e perda de grânulos de querato-hialina (7) .…”

“…Estaligaçãoafeta a transcrição de genes alvo que regulam a proliferação e diferenciação celular (9) . Além disso, Maia Campos e colaboradores (6) demonstraram a eficácia clínica deste ingrediente ativo na melhoria da função barreira da pele. Nesse contexto, o objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar as tion of a cosmetic formulation containing Cichorium intybus root extract, referred herein as "vitamin D like" (VD).…”

“…In addition, synthesis of vitamin D and its receptor in the skin decrease with reduced sun exposure and ageing. Thus, the use of cosmetics products with vitamin D may help improve skin conditions (6) .Another study showed that mice lacking vitamin D receptors showed defective epidermal differentiation, manifested asreduced levels of involucrinandloricrin and loss of keratohyaline granules (7) . Considering that vitamin D regulates important skin mechanisms but it has a low stability in cosmetic formulations (8) , a new active ingredient obtained from Cichorium intybus (common chicory) root extract was proposed to act on the skin as vitamin D. Cichorium intybus root extract -"vitamin D like" -is rich in oligofructosans, which stimulates vitamin D receptor synthesis.…”