Lichen extracts as raw materials in perfumery. Part 1: oakmoss

Abstract

A comprehensive review is presented on extracts of a lichen, oakmoss (Evernia prunastri), that are used in the fragrance industry. Analytical aspects are discussed in detail, from both qualitative and quantitative standpoints, mainly in relation to the industrial processing of the lichen. It is shown that more than 170 constituents have been identified so far in oakmoss extracts, including 47 depsides or depside-derived compounds and 25 triterpenes or steroids. A survey of industrially relevant synthetic products with an oakmoss odour is included. Toxicology issues related to the use of oakmoss extracts in cosmetics and fragrance formulations are critically reviewed.

Lichen extracts as raw materials in perfumery. Part 2: treemoss

“…As mentioned previously, [1] this RN is likely to correspond to most of the industrially available extracts, provided they are produced from pure Pseudevernia furfuracea lichen, free of exogenous products.…”

“…[3,7] This generated mainly qualitative data, which are reported in Huneck and Yoshimura's compilation. [25] As in the case of true oakmoss, [1] whatever the extraction solvent or process, either batch or continuous, [24] the duration and intensity of the hydrolytic pre-treatment can indeed generate a variety of extracts with different compositional characteristics. [3,23] This variability is drastically increased depending on the origin of the lichen (see Introduction) and the host conifer tree, viz.…”

“…Classical analytical methodologies, including separation and spectroscopic techniques for structure determination, are similar to those involved in similar cases. [1] Mono-aryl compounds ( Figure 2) are listed in Table 1, while depsides and depsidones ( Figure 4) are listed in Table 2.…”

“…Following on from the previous article on oakmoss (Evernia prunastri), [1] the present review deals with treemoss extracts that are used in fragrance compounding. In principle, so-called treemoss extracts are mostly manufactured from Pseudevernia furfuracea (L.) Zopf., a lichen which is particularly common on coniferous trees, mainly pine, and cedar trees.…”

“…As we pointed out in the first article, [1] the fragrance industry indiscriminately indicated under the name of 'oakmoss' the lichen collected on oak trees or the lichen collected on other trees. However, distinction has been made traditionally between 'cedarmoss' collected mainly in Morocco on cedar trees (Cedrus atlantica), and 'treemoss' gathered from pine trees (Pinus spp.…”