Mechanisms Regulating Skin Pigmentation: The Rise and Fall of Complexion Coloration

Ebanks, Jody P.; Wickett, R. Randall; Boissy, Raymond E.

doi:10.3390/ijms10094066

Cited by 254 publications

(203 citation statements)

References 111 publications

(231 reference statements)

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“…The injected mixture was able to have an action on the skin pigmentation process with a photoprotective effect [19]. One can assume that antioxidants, particularly ascorbic acid [18] [20], niacinamide [21] and GSH [22] have skin whitening properties. Niacinamide is a well-known vitamin that decreases melanosome transfer [23] with a very interesting light effect [24].…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Clinical Assessment of a Mesotherapy Formulation for Skin Rejuvenation in Healthy Volunteers

Grand-Vincent¹,

Boisnic²,

Salomon³

et al. 2017

JCDSA

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Mesotherapy is a mildly invasive procedure involving several subcutaneous drug injections, which are performed simultaneously. The concept is to inject a very small amount of active compounds (hyaluronic acid, vitamins, antioxidants, enzymes, humectants, …) and the aim is to stimulate the biosynthetic capacity of fibroblasts, increase collagen and elastin production and to give active essential molecules for a fibroblasts environment. Numerous studies suggest that the mesotherapy procedure improves skin hydration and mechanical properties; however, some results have not been statistically significant. In this study, we investigated an antiaging treatment as a complementary approach to a non-surgical rejuvenating procedure after 5 sessions of mesotherapy. Our main objective was to assess the improvement of face, neck and neckline skin quality, after intradermal microinjections of NCTF 135HA®. This mixture, manufactured by FILORGA Laboratories, includes a non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid, vitamins, antioxidants, mineral salts and enzymes. A statistically significant decrease in the depth of crow's-feet wrinkles (43.3%) and in pore size (58.5%) was observed. Also, dermatological scores showed a significant decrease, and data suggest that skin tone was improved with a brighter tone. The injected mixture could then have an action on the skin pigmentation process with a photoprotective effect. Evolution of Dermis density was also investigated and an increase of dermal density and thickness were highlighted, showing an improvement of skin firmness with significant increases of dermis thickness (20%) and dermis density (24%), indicating a neocollagen activity.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Clinical Assessment of a Mesotherapy Formulation for Skin Rejuvenation in Healthy Volunteers

Grand-Vincent¹,

Boisnic²,

Salomon³

et al. 2017

JCDSA

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“…Melanogenesis is initiated and catalysed by the key enzyme tyrosinase 1,2 . Melanin is important in the protection of human skin from the harmful effects of UV light radiation and in the scavenging of free radicals generated within the cytoplasm.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Phenotype-based screening of selected mangrove methanolic crude extracts with anti-melanogenic activity using zebrafish (Danio rerio) as a model

Grisola¹,

Fuentes²

2017

ScienceAsia

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Novel skin hypopigmenting agents are important due to the unwanted side effects of existing therapies and treatments. In this study, the melanogenic effects of crude extracts of selected mangroves, namely, Avicennia marina, Excoecaria agallocha, Rhizophora apiculata, and Sonneratia alba were screened using zebrafish as a model organism. During the screening process, 50 µg/ml and 100 µg/ml concentrations of the extracts were applied to the zebrafish embryos at 9 h post fertilization and effects were observed at 55 h post fertilization. Among the extracts, S. alba bark extract displayed the best results in terms of its effect on melanogenesis and toxicity. It was further investigated and was found to have a dose-dependent effect on the pigmentation of embryos. Higher dosages of S. alba bark extract such as 400 µg/ml and 500 µg/ml caused profound effects on embryo melanogenesis. IMAGEJ analysis revealed that higher dosages remarkably decreased the ocular melanin content of the embryos. Results suggest that S. alba is a potent source of compounds with anti-melanogenic properties.

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“…Any major inhibition or malfunctioning of this process can lead to hyper or hypo pigmentation and may lead to uneven pigmentation of the skin. Skin hypopigmentation occurs as a result of inhibition of melanogenesis or destruction of melanocytes [7]. This can be as a result of the effect of diseases like psoriasis, leprosy and other immuno-deficiency processes or due to the use of skin de-pigmenting agents [8].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Simultaneous Determination of Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid and L-Ascorbic Acid in Some Cosmetic Emulsions

Oyedeji¹,

Akemu²

2017

ijSciences

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Abstract:The presence of skin de-pigmenting agents in cosmetic products, have received considerable attention in Nigeria as a possible source of skin abuse. There has been a call by government for cosmetic products manufacturers to comply with regulatory limits of these additives in their products. This study contributes to the pool of data available on levels of skin de-pigmenting agents in cosmetic products. Fifty cosmetic emulsions for skin use were randomly purchased from some sales outlets in Ibadan, South West Nigeria with the aim of determining the level of hydroquinone, kojic acid and l-ascorbic acid in them. Manufacturer claims were determined by examining the cosmetic package labels. The three de-pigmenting additives were determined simultaneously and quantitatively using High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Results show that 96% of the emulsions were manufactured in four different continents namely Africa (42%), North America (32%), Europe (20%), Asia (2%) and undetermined origin (4%) by 28 different manufacturers. 36% of the manufacturers indicated % hydroquinone content to be 2% while no manufacturer indicated kojic and ascorbic acid content. 52% of the emulsions were creams, 44% lotions and 4% milks. 34% of the samples did not contain any of the three de-pigmenting agents, while 50% contained just hydroquinone, 2% kojic acid alone and 2% only ascorbic acid. Both hydroquinone and kojic acid were in 8% of the samples and only 4% contained the three additives. Levels of occurrence of the additives were 0.1 -4.9% hydroquinone, 0.3 -1.3% kojic acid and ascorbic 0.01 -3.6%. The emulsions which contained hydroquinone were mostly from Africa (28%) followed by North America (22%) followed by Europe (8%), while only 2% from Asia and unidentified continent. Samples from Cote de Voire contained higher concentrations of hydroquinone which were greater than 3% in all cases except one. In conclusion, this study showed that hydroquinone is the major skin de-pigmenting agent in cosmetics in Nigeria the Nigerian Market. 22% of the manufacturers used hydroquinone at levels higher than the regulatory limit (2%). 64% of these manufacturers (55% Cote de Voire + 9% others) are from Africa. Only one manufacturer from Nigeria included hydroquinone at a level above regulatory limit.

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Mechanisms Regulating Skin Pigmentation: The Rise and Fall of Complexion Coloration

Cited by 254 publications

References 111 publications

Clinical Assessment of a Mesotherapy Formulation for Skin Rejuvenation in Healthy Volunteers

Clinical Assessment of a Mesotherapy Formulation for Skin Rejuvenation in Healthy Volunteers

Phenotype-based screening of selected mangrove methanolic crude extracts with anti-melanogenic activity using zebrafish (Danio rerio) as a model

Simultaneous Determination of Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid and L-Ascorbic Acid in Some Cosmetic Emulsions

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