Modeling of Cross-sectional Shape for Women's Jacket Design

Wang, Zhaohui; Ng, Roger; Newton, E.; Zhang, Weiyuan

doi:10.2115/fiber.63.87

Cited by 13 publications

(10 citation statements)

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“…This approach allows the more specific setting of ease allowance for each body part. The quantification method most frequently used by the researchers is to determine the linear distance between the human body and the garment as measured along a reference line (Choi and Kim 2004;Wang et al 2007;Kim et al 2011;Su et al 2015), which allows to quantify the distance between the human body and the garment in various locations. The difference in two-dimensional area between the human body and the garment may be directly calculated along the cross-sectional plane; however, few researchers seem to be studying this.…”

Section: Quantification Of the Ease Allowancementioning

confidence: 99%

“…The whole data collection process from the subjects were reviewed and approved by the Institutional Review Board. All subjects were consented to participate in the study and signed on the consent form, and no compensation was Difference in Segmented Circumference = SCG -SCB (Wang et al, 2006;Kim, 2008) Linear Distance (Choi and Kim, 2004;Wang et al, 2007;Kim et al, 2011;Su et al, 2015) W h o le C ir cu mfere nce of Garment(WCG) W h o le C ir c u m fe rence of Body (WCB) Difference in Whole Circumferences = WCG -WCB (Ashdown and DeLong, 1995;Park and Lee, 2013;Frackiewicz-Kaczmarek et al, 2015;Mert et al, 2016) Areal Difference Volumetric Difference (Choi et al, 2014) and human body. ② shows the difference between the garment size and human body size measured separately for a specific segment of the circumference.…”

Section: Ease Allowance Of the Initial Fitting Jacketsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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A quantification of the preferred ease allowance for the men’s formal jacket patterns

2019

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Ease allowance is an additional space inserted between the body and the garment to facilitate body movement, regulate micro climate and express designer's intention. The required ease allowance can vary even with the same garment type according to the purpose of wearing, which affects the needed level of range of motion, air ventilation and thermal insulation. Assuming that the elasticities of the fabric are similar, a formal suit requires less ease allowance than a sportswear, which generally requires greater motion adaptability. Meanwhile, if the elasticity of fabric increases, the garment has greater motion adaptability even if the same size of pattern is used (Geršak 2014). The compression wear which has negative value of ease allowance also shows a similar level of motion adaptability to the garment with sufficient ease allowance because it is made of the material with excellent elasticity (Bernhardt and Anderson 2005; Brandon et al. 2003). The aesthetic focus of the men's formal suit is to express the ideal shape of a men's nude body through clothing, excluding the exaggeration or distortion (Hollander 2016).

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Section: Quantification Of the Ease Allowancementioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Ease Allowance Of the Initial Fitting Jacketsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A quantification of the preferred ease allowance for the men’s formal jacket patterns

2019

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“…Some researchers have measured 3D ease allowance, used it for pattern-making and comfort evaluation (Wang and Newton, 2007;Chen et al, 2008;Thomassey and Bruniaux, 2013). However, these studies did not actually produce a 3D garment model.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Upper garment 3D modeling for pattern making

Zhang

Innami

Kim

et al. 2015

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

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PurposeThe aim of this study is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method. Design/methodology/approachWe used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, we made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, we produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, we calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back, and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape worn on a body for each basic model. Using the multiplication factors, we made two different size garment models from two different size dummies for each basic model. We used these models to make patterns and garments. FindingsThe reproduced jackets had similar shapes, silhouettes and ease allowances to the original jacket. Two garments of different sizes for each original jacket were made using the multiplication factors, and these garments also had similar silhouettes to the original jacket. Research limitations/implicationsThe implications of the work could be the new size-changing method. Originality/valueUsing our modeling method, we were able to make complex new garment models that take into account ease allowance and silhouette. The ability to size these models up or down using multiplication factors could be a substitute for the grading method.

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“…The first is based on somatograph. Wang et al (2007) followed the same methodology in predicting the number of folds in the ladies' jacket. This class of method faces the challenge of robust and systematic procedure to improve the accuracy of the garment pattern.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Garment modelling by fuzzy logic

2011

Soft Computing in Textile Engineering

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Modeling of Cross-sectional Shape for Women's Jacket Design

Cited by 13 publications

References 0 publications

A quantification of the preferred ease allowance for the men’s formal jacket patterns

A quantification of the preferred ease allowance for the men’s formal jacket patterns

Upper garment 3D modeling for pattern making

Garment modelling by fuzzy logic

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