Multiphoton imaging in cosmetics research

Pena, Ana‐Maria; Aguilar, Luc; Azadiguian, Gayané; Baldeweck, Thérèse; Baux, Ludwig; Black, Annie; Bornschlögl, Thomas; Brizion, Sébastien; Chen, Xueqin; Colonna, Anne; Galey, Jean‐Baptiste; Ngo, Blandine; Nouveau, Stéphanie; Rolland, Géraldine; Sellathurai, T.; Sextius, Peggy; Tancrède‐Bohin, Emmanuelle; Tissot, Nicolas; Victorin, Steeve

doi:10.1117/12.2508902

Cited by 3 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 33 publications

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“…Melanin 3D quantification was performed using Pseudo‐FLIM approach combining multiphoton microscopy and fluorescence lifetime imaging 3,6,12 . Melanin density corresponds to the ratio between the number of melanin voxels to the number of epidermal voxels.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Epidermis and superficial dermis can be characterized with sub-micrometer resolution up to ~160-200 µm depth, by taking advantage of intrinsic multiphoton signals: second-harmonic generation (SHG) created by fibrillar collagens and two-photon excited fluorescence (2PEF) emitted by keratin, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, flavin adenine dinucleotide, melanin, or elastin. 3 The advent of medically approved multiphoton microscopes 4 enabled a broad range of clinical applications spanning from the characterization of human skin pigmentation, 3,5,6 age-related, or photoaging changes, [7][8][9][10][11][12] dermatological disorders and melanoma [13][14][15][16][17][18][19][20][21] up to the assessment of penetration and effects of pharmaceutical/ cosmetic products on human skin. 3,12,[22][23][24][25][26][27][28] Multiphoton images of in vivo human skin contain a lot of valuable information that can be extracted using appropriate image processing tools.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The advent of medically approved multiphoton microscopes 4 enabled a broad range of clinical applications spanning from the characterization of human skin pigmentation, 3,5,6 age‐related, or photoaging changes, 7‐12 dermatological disorders and melanoma 13‐21 up to the assessment of penetration and effects of pharmaceutical/ cosmetic products on human skin 3,12,22‐28 …”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

In vivo multiphoton imaging for non‐invasive time course assessment of retinoids effects on human skin

Tancrède‐Bohin

Baldeweck

Brizion

et al. 2020

Skin Research and Technology

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Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

In vivo multiphoton imaging for non‐invasive time course assessment of retinoids effects on human skin

Tancrède‐Bohin

Baldeweck

Brizion

et al. 2020

Skin Research and Technology

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In vivo multiphoton multiparametric 3D quantification of human skin aging on forearm and face

Pena

Baldeweck

Decencière

et al. 2022

Sci Rep

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Quantifying skin aging changes and characterizing its 3D structure and function in a non-invasive way is still a challenging area of research, constantly evolving with the development of imaging methods and image analysis tools. In vivo multiphoton imaging offers means to assess skin constituents in 3D, however prior skin aging studies mostly focused on 2D analyses of dermal fibers through their signals’ intensities or densities. In this work, we designed and implemented multiphoton multiparametric 3D quantification tools for in vivo human skin pigmentation and aging characterization. We first demonstrated that despite the limited field of view of the technic, investigation of 2 regions of interest (ROIs) per zone per volunteer is a good compromise in assessing 3D skin constituents in both epidermis and superficial dermis. We then characterized skin aging on different UV exposed areas—ventral and dorsal forearms, face. The three major facts of aging that are epidermal atrophy, the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) flattening and dermal elastosis can be non-invasively quantified and compared. Epidermal morphological changes occur late and were only objectified between extreme age groups. Melanin accumulation in suprabasal layers with age and chronic exposure on ventral and dorsal forearms is less known and appears earlier. Superficial dermal aging changes are mainly elastin density increase, with no obvious change in collagen density, reflected by SHGto2PEF ratio and SAAID index decrease and ImbrN index increase on all skin areas. Analysis of the z-dermal distribution of these parameters highlighted the 2nd 20 µm thickness normalized dermal sub-layer, that follows the DEJ shape, as exhibiting the highest aging differences. Moreover, the 3D ImbrN index allows refining the share of photoaging in global aging on face and the 3D SAAID index on forearm, which elastin or fibrillar collagens densities alone do not allow. Photoaging of the temple area evolves as a function of chronic exposure with a more pronounced increase in elastin density, also structurally modified from thin and straight elastic fibers in young volunteers to dense and compact pattern in older ones. More generally, multiphoton multiparametric 3D skin quantification offers rich spatial information of interest in assessing normal human skin condition and its pathological, external environment or product induced changes.

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Combining Raman imaging and MCR‐ALS analysis for monitoring retinol permeation in human skin

Essendoubi

Alsamad

Noël

et al. 2021

Skin Research and Technology

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Background: Monitoring the transcutaneous permeation of exogenous molecules using conventional techniques generally requires long pre-analytical preparation or labelling of samples. However, Raman spectroscopy is a label-free and nondestructive method which provides spatial distribution of tracked actives in skin. The aim of our study was to prove the interest of Raman imaging coupled with multivariate curve resolution alternating least square (MCR-ALS) analysis in monitoring retinol penetration into frozen and living human skin. Materials and Methods:After topical treatment of skin samples by free or encapsulated retinol, thin cross sections were analysed by Raman imaging (up to 100 µm depth). Mann-Whitney test was used to identify retinol spectroscopic markers in skin. MCR-ALS was used to estimate retinol contribution in Raman spectral images.Heat maps were constructed to compare the distribution of free and encapsulated retinol in skin models. Results:We identified the bands at 1158, 1196 and 1591 cm -1 as specific features for monitoring retinol in skin. Moreover, our MCR-ALS results showed an improvement of retinol penetration (up to 30 µm depth) with the encapsulated form as well as storage reservoir formation in stratum corneum, for each skin model. Finally, greater retinol penetration into living skin was observed. Conclusion:This study shows a proof of concept for the evaluation of retinol penetration in skin using Raman imaging coupled with MCR-ALS. This concept needs to be validated on more subjects to include inter-individual variability but also other factors affecting skin permeation (age, sex, pH, etc). Our study can be extended to other actives.

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Multiphoton imaging in cosmetics research

Cited by 3 publications

References 33 publications

In vivo multiphoton imaging for non‐invasive time course assessment of retinoids effects on human skin

In vivo multiphoton imaging for non‐invasive time course assessment of retinoids effects on human skin

In vivo multiphoton multiparametric 3D quantification of human skin aging on forearm and face

Combining Raman imaging and MCR‐ALS analysis for monitoring retinol permeation in human skin

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