Nonlinear Surf Zone Wave Properties as Estimated From Boussinesq Modelling: Random Waves and Complex Bathymetries

Cienfuegos, Rodrigo; Barthélemy, Éric; Bonneton, Philippe; Gondran, X.

doi:10.1142/9789812709554_0031

Cited by 4 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 16 publications

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“…While this work shows the efficacy of Ruessink's method in estimating asymmetric waveform characteristics, that approach relies on local measurements and does not account for shoaling history [29]. Other studies [59,60] have included non-local and offshore wave parameters to estimate wave asymmetry. They [60] studied the effects of offshore wave steepness, offshore spectral bandwidth, and beach slope and showed a 50% better prediction of asymmetric parameters nearing breaking regimes.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 93%

Shoaling Wave Shape Estimates from Field Observations and Derived Bedload Sediment Rates

Kalra

Suttles

Sherwood

et al. 2022

JMSE

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The shoaling transformation from generally linear deep-water waves to asymmetric shallow-water waves modifies wave shapes and causes near-bed orbital velocities to become asymmetrical, contributing to net sediment transport. In this work, we used two methods to estimate the asymmetric wave shape from data at three sites. The first method converted wave measurements made at the surface to idealized near-bottom wave-orbital velocities using a set of empirical equations: the “parameterized” waveforms. The second method involved direct measurements of velocities and pressure made near the seabed: the “direct” waveforms. Estimates from the two methods were well correlated at all three sites (Pearson’s correlation coefficient greater than 0.85). Both methods were used to drive bedload-transport calculations that accounted for asymmetric waves, and the results were compared with a traditional excess-stress formulation and field estimates of bedload transport derived from ripple migration rates based on sonar imagery. The cumulative bedload transport from the parameterized waveform was 25% greater than the direct waveform, mainly because the parameterized waveform did not account for negative skewness. Calculated transport rates were comparable to rates estimated from ripple migration except during the largest event, when calculated rates were as much as 100 times greater, which occurred during high period waves.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 93%

Shoaling Wave Shape Estimates from Field Observations and Derived Bedload Sediment Rates

Kalra

Suttles

Sherwood

et al. 2022

JMSE

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“…SERR-1D has been extensively validated by comparisons with non-breaking and breaking wave laboratory experiments [19,20,21,45].…”

Section: High-order Compact Finite Volume Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…which are injected into a Riemann solver. Neglecting temporally the time discretization, we obtain the following semi-discrete finite-volume scheme for (19):…”

Section: Nswe Shock Capturing Solvermentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The resulting finite-volume scheme provides high-order accuracy approximations of the weak solutions of system (19) while preserving the positivity of the water-height, thanks to the relaxation approach developed in [7]. This last property is paramount to ensure robust and accurate simulations of timeevolving shorelines [44].…”

Section: Nswe Shock Capturing Solvermentioning

confidence: 99%

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Fully nonlinear weakly dispersive modelling of wave transformation, breaking and runup

Bonneton¹,

Barthélemy²,

Carter³

et al. 2010

Preprint

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To describe the strongly nonlinear dynamics of waves propagating in the final stages of shoaling and in the surf and swash zones, fully nonlinear models are required. The ability of the Serre or Green Naghdi (S-GN) equations to reproduce this nonlinear processes is reviewed. Two high-order methods for solving S-GN equations, based on Finite Volume approaches, are presented. The first one is based on a quasi-conservative form of the S-GN equations, and the second on a hybrid Finite Volume/Finite Difference method. We show the ability of these two approaches to accurately simulate nonlinear shoaling, breaking and runup processes.

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“…To have a more detailed picture of the evolution of the wave as it shoals and breaks, we will also consider a set of statistical outputs. There exist several works that examine them in the context of BT models, see for example [8,17,36]. A measure to examine the left-right differences in a wave is the wave asymmetry which is defines as…”

Section: Model Outputs and Post-processingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Parameter Sensitivity for Wave-Breaking Closures in Boussinesq-Type Models

2022

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We consider the issue of wave-breaking closure for the well known Green-Naghdi model and attempt at providing some more understanding of the sensitivity of some closure approaches to the numerical set-up. More precisely and based on [16] we used two closure strategies for modelling wave-breaking of a solitary wave over a slope. The first one is the hybrid method consisting of suppressing the dispersive terms in a breaking region and the second one is an eddy viscosity approach based on the solution of a turbulent kinetic energy model. The two closures use the same conditions for the triggering of the breaking mechanisms. Both the triggering conditions and the breaking models themselves use case depended / ad/hoc parameters which are affecting the numerical solution wile changing. The scope of this work is to make use of sensitivity indices computed by means of Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) to provide the sensitivity of wave breaking simulation to the variation of parameters such as the mesh size and the breaking parameters specific to each breaking model. The sensitivity analysis is performed using the UQlab framework for Uncertainty Quantification [24].

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Nonlinear Surf Zone Wave Properties as Estimated From Boussinesq Modelling: Random Waves and Complex Bathymetries

Cited by 4 publications

References 16 publications

Shoaling Wave Shape Estimates from Field Observations and Derived Bedload Sediment Rates

Shoaling Wave Shape Estimates from Field Observations and Derived Bedload Sediment Rates

Fully nonlinear weakly dispersive modelling of wave transformation, breaking and runup

Parameter Sensitivity for Wave-Breaking Closures in Boussinesq-Type Models

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