Phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction for spectral wave models

Holthuijsen, L.H.; Herman, Agnieszka; Booij, N.

doi:10.1016/s0378-3839(03)00065-6

Cited by 180 publications

(115 citation statements)

References 14 publications

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“…However, the representation of the effect of diffraction on scales larger than the wavelength can be included in (7.1) by a proper modification of C θ (e.g. Holthuijsen et al, 2003). For natural topographies, the geometrical optics approximation is generally quite robust.…”

Section: Limitations Of Geometrical Optics: Diffraction Reflection Amentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Cavaleri¹,

Alves²,

Ardhuin³

et al. 2007

Progress in Oceanography

461

177

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This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered.The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, non-linear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, non-linear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments. Keywords

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Section: Limitations Of Geometrical Optics: Diffraction Reflection Amentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Cavaleri¹,

Alves²,

Ardhuin³

et al. 2007

Progress in Oceanography

461

177

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Wave shoaling and refraction mechanisms are included in SWAN (Holthuijsen, 2007). To correct for the 2 m tidal fluctuation at Lizard Island, Navy Seafarer tidal predictions were obtained, which were compared to measurements taken in situ and confirmed as acceptable.…”

Section: Mapping Wave Energy Across the Reef Platformmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) two-dimensional model was employed to estimate wave generation and propagation in the horizontal plane Holthuijsen 2007;. A series of spatial wave parameters was generated from wind measurements across Lizard Island, including significant wave height H RMS , mean wave period T m and peak wave energy direction θ p .…”

Section: Mapping Wave Energy Across the Reef Platformmentioning

confidence: 99%

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A geospatial assessment of the relationship between reef flat community calcium carbonate production and wave energy

et al. 2013

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2013). A geospatial assessment of the relationship between reef flat community calcium carbonate production and wave energy. Coral Reefs, 32 (4), 1025-1039. A geospatial assessment of the relationship between reef flat community calcium carbonate production and wave energy AbstractThe ability of benthic communities inhabiting coral reefs to produce calcium carbonate underpins the development of reef platforms and associated sedimentary landforms, as well as the fixation of inorganic carbon and buffering of diurnal pH fluctuations in ocean surface waters. Quantification of the relationship between reef flat community calcium carbonate production and wave energy provides an empirical basis for understanding and managing this functionally important process. This study employs geospatial techniques across the reef platform at Lizard Island, Great Barrier Reef, to (1) map the distribution and estimate the total magnitude of reef community carbonate production and (2) empirically ascertain the influence of wave energy on community carbonate production. A World-View-2 satellite image and a field data set of 364 ground referencing points are employed, along with data on physical reef characteristics (e.g. bathymetry, rugosity) to map and validate the spatial distribution of the four major community carbonate producers (live coral, carbonate sand, green calcareous macroalgae and encrusting calcified algae) across the reef platform. Carbonate production is estimated for the complete reef platform from the composition of these community components. A synoptic model of wave energy is developed using the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) two-dimensional model for the entire reef platform. The relationship between locally derived measures of carbonate production and wave energy is evaluated at both the global scale and local scale along spatial gradients of wave energy traversing the reef platform. A wave energy threshold is identified, below which carbonate production levels appear to increase with wave energy and above which mechanical forcing reduces community production. This implies an optimal set of hydrodynamic conditions characterized by wave energy levels of approximately 300 J m−2, providing an empirical basis for management of potential changes in community carbonate production associated with climate change-driven increases in wave energy. AbstractThe ability of benthic communities inhabiting coral reefs to produce calcium carbonate underpins the development of reef platforms and associated sedimentary landforms, as well as the fixation of inorganic carbon and buffering of diurnal pH fluctuations in ocean surface waters. Quantification of the relationship between reef flat community calcium carbonate production and wave energy provides an empirical basis for understanding and managing this functionally important process. This study employs geospatial techniques across the reef platform at Lizard Island, Great Barrier Reef to (i) map the distribution and estimate the total magnitude of reef community carbonate...

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“…The shallow water SWAN wave model (version 40.72) is often applied in those areas (Ris et al, 1994;Booij et al, 1996;Holthuijsen et al, 2003;Booij, 2004 (Fig. 3d).…”

Section: Swan Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Extreme Waves and Wave Run-up in Halifax Harbour under Climate Change Scenarios

Perrie

2012

Atmosphere-Ocean

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The tendency for rising sea levels, combined with changes in the frequency and intensity of extreme storm events raises the potential for flooding and inundation of coastal locations such as Halifax Harbour, in the context of climate change. In this study, we consider three scenarios for extreme high water levels based on climate change scenarios and estimates for land subsidence, rising mean sea levels, and return period analysis for extreme events (from previous studies). We also investigate the effect of ocean waves on these estimates for extreme high water levels. Because the most damaging storm to make landfall in Nova Scotia over the last century was Hurricane Juan (2003), it was chosen to simulate the extreme case of storm-generated waves and wave run-up in Halifax Harbour. To simulate waves generated by Hurricane Juan, a nested-grid system consisting of two modern state-of-the-art operational wave models was used. High quality winds were used to drive the wave models, and the simulations used recently updated high resolution coastal bathymetry. Observed water elevation changes in Halifax Harbour were used in wave model simulations of Hurricane Juan. The Federal Emergency Management Agency's (FEMA) run-up model is used to estimate wave run-up elevation, which is validated with recorded high water observations along the coastline. Simulated waves and wave run-up elevations for Hurricane Juan suggest that the maximum significant wave heights at the mouth of the Harbour were 9.0 m, and the wave run-up was as high as 2.0 m along the shoreline of Halifax Harbour. In this way, we estimated the impact of waves and wave run-up on extreme high water elevations for three climate change scenarios in Halifax Harbour, under worstcase conditions. The sensitivity of these estimates is analyzed for different water level variations, wave propagation directions and shore slope profiles.RÉSUMÉ [Traduit par la rédaction] La tendance à la hausse du niveau de la mer de pair avec les changements dans la fréquence et l'intensité des événements de tempêtes extrêmes augmentent le risque d'inondation et de submersion à des emplacements côtiers comme le port d'Halifax dans le contexte du changement climatique. Dans cette étude, nous examinons trois scénarios de niveaux de hautes eaux extrêmes basés sur des scénarios de changement climatique et estimations de subsidence du terrain, l'élévation du niveau moyen de la mer ainsi que l'analyse de la période de retour d'événements extrêmes (faite lors d'études antérieures). Nous examinons aussi les effets des vagues de l'océan sur ces estimations de niveaux de hautes eaux extrêmes. Étant donné que la tempête la plus dévastatrice à avoir touché terre en Nouvelle-Écosse au cours du dernier siècle a été l'ouragan Juan (2003), c'est celle-ci que nous avons choisie pour simuler le cas extrême de vagues produites par une tempête et de remontée de vagues dans le port d'Halifax. Pour simuler les vagues produites par Juan, nous nous sommes servis d'un système à grilles imbriquées consistan...

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Phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction for spectral wave models

Cited by 180 publications

References 14 publications

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Wave modelling – The state of the art

A geospatial assessment of the relationship between reef flat community calcium carbonate production and wave energy

Extreme Waves and Wave Run-up in Halifax Harbour under Climate Change Scenarios

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