Previously neglected – now increasingly popular The recent acceptance of funnel chanterelle, Craterellus tubaeformis (Fr.) Quél., as food in contemporary Scandinavia (Norway, Sweden)

Abstract

Hunting mushrooms for food is a recent activity in Scandinavia (Norway and Sweden). No mushroom species were used by the peasantry for food in pre-industrial times. In fact, the rural population had a deep-rooted distrust of fungi. Although mushrooms were visible in the landscape (forests, meadows) which were used for other purposes by peasants, hunters, and herders, the edible macrofungi were usually left untouched even in times of need. In general, Scandinavians were mycophobic societies. However, this has changed over the past 150 years. Urbanites have discovered fungi as a food, due to information disseminated by academic mycologists and amateur fungi enthusiasts in books, various printed media, evening classes, radio programmes, podcasts etc. In recent decades, mushroom hunting has also become an important leisure activity, especially for city dwellers who can easily access the forest by bike and car. Mushrooms are, by reason of the so-called Everyman's Right, a free resource available for everyone to harvest, even on private land. Since the end of the 1970s, urban foragers have particularly discovered the funnel chantarelle, Craterellus tubaeformis (Fr.) Quél. In a short time, it has become one of the most popular edible mushrooms in Scandinavia. Even though it was mentioned as an edible mushroom in field guides as early as the mid-20th century, it was not until the late 1970s that it began to be appreciated by the general public. In the early 1980s, it was widely mentioned in newspapers and in evening classes for novice mushroom gatherers. After a brief break following the Chernobyl disaster in the spring of 1986 – due to concern about the high level of radiocaesium in forest products – C. tubaeformis has grown in popularity. Today, the funnel chanterelle is a valued wild food with a wide range of uses. In addition to people gathering chanterelles for personal consumption, commercial operators also harvest them. This taxon can therefore be found both fresh and dried in grocery stores, farm shops, and weekly market stalls. C. tubaeformis is also harvested to some extent in other Eurasian countries as well as in North America. The aim of this article is to analyse how C. tubaeformis was discovered by foragers and became one of the most popular edible wild fungi in Norwegian and Swedish cuisines.