Rounde Heades in Square Cappes

Abstract

Hilary Doda holds a BA in Anthropology from McGill University, completed her Masters in History at Dalhousie University, Nova Scotia, and has taught in the Costume Studies program within Dalhousie's Department of Theatre. Her research focus is on the use of costume as a political tool in sixteenth-century England. Ttie vestiarian controversy, a mid sixteenth-century debate over the use of iiturgicai garments, spoke to more than a simple argument over clericai seif-governance. The religious significance of the garments themseives, their historicai iinks to the Papacy, and the notion that clothing had psychoiogicai and spiritual effects upon the wearer(s) combined to make this argument a pivotai one for English church history. The Cathoiic ciericai garments were dramatic dispiays of wealth and power both spirituai and temporal, used as transformative garments tiiat distinguished the bishop from his congregation. Reformers both during the reign of Edward VI and those returning to Engiand after the coronation of Elizabeth I argued for the acceptance of the Geneva gown, a plain black robe which, they argued, performed the same without the historical weight of the vestments. The debate which arose over the garments was fueled by ideologues on both sides, reformers speaking to the need to separate from the 'bioody butchers' of Rome, versus the Queen's need to assume controi over a liveried and powerful bishopric to further secure her legitimacy. The understanding that ritual garb acted as a material link between humankind and the divine invested the controversy with much more importance than if it had simply been a matter of legal jurisdiction. Beginning in force in 1560, after previous debates in 7550, by the winter of 1566 when debate finally died down, the controversy had spawned poiiticai deadiock, the beginnings of separatist congregations, and attempts at structurai reform of the church itseif