Sheltering effect of islands on the Pacific swell

Humeniuk,; León, Sonia Ponce de; Carvalho, Nelson; Carvalho, Leandro Machado de; Soares, C. Guedes

doi:10.1201/b15813-122

Cited by 1 publication

(1 citation statement)

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“…The numerical phase-averaged model could also reveal this characteristic as well [3,13]. Similar phenomena have been found to be not only caused by seamounts but also in wind farms' fields [41] and in swell simulations around islands [42].…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 73%

Phase-Resolved Wave Simulation over Isolated Seamount

Latifah,

Hariyanto,

Handri

et al. 2023

JMSE

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This paper investigates the wind wave deformations above two isolated shallow seamounts using a phase-resolved wave model simulation using the HAWASSI-AB software. The first seamount is located some 8 km from the south coast of Jawa, Indonesia, near Glagah, with its top area about 2 m from the water level, while the second is the Socotra Rock, in the East China Sea, which has a top 4.6 m under the sea surface. The simulations found that isolated shallow bathymetry may generate a crossing sea region endangering ships. In both domains, short-crested wave simulations of second order show strong refraction and diffraction effects when waves run towards and downstream of the top of the seamount. Waves near the summit embrace the seamount and form a focal area with larger waves downstream. After crossing the Socotra Rock, the interaction waves lead to a crossing sea in the deep water. On the other hand, having passed the Glagah, waves further downstream are partly absent over a substantial stretch of the coast. For both cases, the phase-resolved wave simulation results determine detailed wind wave conditions and wave spectra over the whole area, compensating for a lack of experimental data.

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