Stochastic modeling of inhomogeneous ocean waves

Smit, Pieter; Janssen, T. T.; Herbers, T. H. C.

doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2015.06.009

Cited by 15 publications

(21 citation statements)

References 40 publications

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“…Later, Smit et al. (2015b) improved their previous model with the introduction of a source term to account for the depth‐induced wave breaking. Though Smit and Janssen (2013) successfully modeled heterogenous wave statistics, the wave field remained strictly Gaussian since the model assumed linear wave dynamics.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of Wave Coherence on Longshore Variability of Nearshore Wave Processes

et al. 2021

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Since Young's (1802) double-slit experiment with optical waves, wave coherence has been studied in various scientific fields including quantum mechanics and engineering. Wave coherence happens when two intersecting waves have identical wave frequency, waveform, and constant phase difference and result in a stationary wave interference in the wavefield. Despite the importance of the subject in various scientific fields, it has not been studied broadly for the water waves. In one of the earliest studies of coherent waves, Dalrymple (1975) investigated the longshore variation of the mean water level as well as the wave height and wave-induced circulation due to the existence of intersecting waves with equal frequencies. He showed that alongshore variation of wave height due to the presence of two coherent waves results in nodal and anti-nodal points alongshore, and rip currents are formed at nodal lines with zero wave height. Following his work, Z. Wei and Dalrymple (2017) carried out numerical experiments with the Lagrangian-based smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH) model using two intersecting waves of the same period and confirmed the

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of Wave Coherence on Longshore Variability of Nearshore Wave Processes

et al. 2021

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“…These limitations have been partially alleviated by the recent work of Smit and Janssen (2013), who introduced the second-order statistics into a stochastic wave model, allowing the modeling of statistical wave interference caused by wave refraction and diffraction in coastal seas. The model was validated against in situ data measured during the Nearshore Canyon experiment in the Scripps and La Jolla Canyon (Smit et al, 2015), which showed that the model based on the quasi-coherent statistical theory is able to predict statistical interference and associated inhomogeneities in the wave field. More recently, Akrish et al (2020) have extended the quasi-coherent model to include the effect of wave-current interaction.…”

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confidence: 99%

Phase‐Resolved Modeling of Wave Interference and Its Effects on Nearshore Circulation in a Large Ebb Shoal‐Beach System

2022

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Coherent wave interference commonly occurs in the coastal ocean due to surface wave interaction with the inner-shelf topography, coastal structures, or coastal currents (Smit & Janssen, 2013). It is more significant for narrow-band waves, i.g., swells, which exhibit persistent wave height variability in the laboratory (Chawla et al., 1998;Vincent & Briggs, 1989) and field (Smit et al., 2016). Breaking waves under such coherent interference influences can generate nearshore circulation cells, which are more stationary (Dalrymple, 1975;Dalrymple et al., 2011) in contrast to transient circulation cells induced by non-coherent short-crested waves (Johnson, 2004;Spydell & Feddersen, 2009).Modeling of coherent wave interference and associated wave-induced processes is challenging, especially at field scale. Traditional field-scale wave prediction models, such as Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) (Booij et al., 1999) or WaveWatch (Tolman, 1991), are stochastic models based on the radiative transfer equation, which requires the assumptions for a slowly varying medium and statistically independent wave components (Komen et al., 1996). Such assumptions make the model unable to resolve inhomogeneous wave patterns caused by

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“…The long wave model is coupled to a short wave model (high-frequency gravity water waves with a period between 1 and 30 s), which quantifies the wind sea that forms in conjunction with the long waves. Advanced short wave models (see WAMDI 1988;Booij, Ris & Holthuijsen 1999;Tolman 2009;Smit, Janssen & Herbers 2015) can capture a multitude of surface water-wave phenomena on a wide variety of scales. This complexity, however, comes at a steep computational cost.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%