The use of genetic programming to develop a predictor of swash excursion on sandy beaches

Passarella, Marinella; Goldstein, Evan B.; Muro, Sandro De; Coco, Giovanni

doi:10.5194/nhess-18-599-2018

Cited by 37 publications

(31 citation statements)

References 51 publications

(108 reference statements)

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…Moreover, the dependence of S IG on

β \sqrt{H_{s 0} L_{0}}

is higher for broad‐banded runs with γ =1 ( r 2 =0.81) with respect to more narrow‐banded runs (e.g., r 2 =0.59 for runs with γ =13). If β is removed from equations and , the correlation decreases for both S IG and S tot , consistent with studies suggesting that β plays a relevant role in both high‐ and low‐frequency swash dynamics (da Silva et al, ; Passarella et al, ; Ruggiero et al, ).…”

Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 84%

Numerical Assessment of Infragravity Swash Response to Offshore Wave Frequency Spread Variability

2019

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

We use a numerical model, already validated for this purpose, to simulate the effect of wave frequency spread on wave transformation and swash amplitudes. Simulations are performed for planar beach slope cases and for offshore wave spectra whose frequency spread changes over realistic values. Results indicate that frequency spread, under normally approaching waves, affects swash amplitudes. For moderately dissipative conditions, the significant infragravity swash increases for increasing values of the offshore frequency spread. The opposite occurs under extremely dissipative conditions. The numerical analysis suggests that this inverted pattern is driven by the effect that different distributions of incoming long-wave energy have on low-frequency wave propagation and dissipation. In fact, with large frequency spreads, wave groups force relatively short subharmonic waves that are strongly enhanced in the shoaling zone. This process leads to an infragravity swash increase for increasing frequency spread under moderately dissipative conditions in which low-frequency energy dissipation in shallow water is negligible or small. However, under extremely dissipative conditions, the significant low-frequency energy dissipation associated with large frequency spreads overturns the strong energy growth in the shoaling zone eventually yielding an infragravity swash decrease for increasing frequency spread.

show abstract

“…Moreover, the dependence of S IG on

β \sqrt{H_{s 0} L_{0}}

Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 84%

Numerical Assessment of Infragravity Swash Response to Offshore Wave Frequency Spread Variability

2019

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…A non-exhaustive list of the most commonly used empirical formulations of setup and runup can be found in Tables 1 and 2 respectively, and in the references therein. A list of empirical swash formulations can be found in Passarella et al 2018. Note that the definition of the beach slope is not straightforward for complex profiles (e.g.…”

Section: Empirical Modelsmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes

et al. 2019

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean-land-atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance. In this review, we describe the physical processes by which sea states may affect coastal sea level at several timescales, we present the methods currently used to estimate the wave contribution to coastal sea-level changes, we describe past and future wave climate variability, we discuss the contribution of wave to coastal sea-level changes, and we discuss the limitations and perspectives of this research field.

show abstract

“…Environmental conditions and significant infragravity swash height (S ig ), observed during 13 prominent experiments which underpin much of the understanding of infragravity swash processes on sandy beaches, are presented in Table 1, and their locations and relative exposure are provided in Figure 1. Mean values were obtained from Reference [12] and ranges from Reference [13]. Further information and reference to published works relating to the data in Table 1 can also be found in Reference [10].…”

Section: Background and Literaturementioning

confidence: 99%

Storm Waves at the Shoreline: When and Where Are Infragravity Waves Important?

Billson

Russell

Davidson

2019

JMSE

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Infragravity waves (frequency, f = 0.005–0.05 Hz) are known to dominate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes close to the shoreline on low-sloping sandy beaches, especially when incident waves are large. However, in storm wave conditions, how their importance varies on different beach types, and with different mixes of swell and wind-waves is largely unknown. Here, a new dataset, comprising shoreline video observations from five contrasting sites (one low-sloping sandy beach, two steep gravel beaches, and two compound/mixed sand and gravel beaches), under storm wave conditions (deep water wave height, H0 up to 6.6 m, and peak period, Tp up to 18.2 s), was used to assess: how the importance and dominance of infragravity waves varies at the shoreline? In this previously unstudied combination of wave and morphological conditions, significant infragravity swash heights (Sig) at the shoreline in excess of 0.5 m were consistently observed on all five contrasting beaches. The largest infragravity swash heights were observed on a steep gravel beach, followed by the low-sloping sandy beach, and lowest on the compound/mixed sites. Due to contrasting short wave breaking and dissipation processes, infragravity frequencies were observed to be most dominant over gravity frequencies on the low-sloping sandy beach, occasionally dominant on the gravel beaches, and rarely dominant on the compound/mixed beaches. Existing empirical predictive relationships were shown to parameterize Sig skillfully on the sand and gravel beaches separately. Deep water wave power was found to accurately predict Sig on both the sand and gravel beaches, demonstrating that, under storm wave conditions, the wave heights and periods are the main drivers of infragravity oscillations at the shoreline, with the beach morphology playing a secondary role. The exception to this was the compound/mixed beach sites where shoreline infragravity energy remained low.

show abstract

The use of genetic programming to develop a predictor of swash excursion on sandy beaches

Cited by 37 publications

References 51 publications

Numerical Assessment of Infragravity Swash Response to Offshore Wave Frequency Spread Variability

Numerical Assessment of Infragravity Swash Response to Offshore Wave Frequency Spread Variability

The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes

Storm Waves at the Shoreline: When and Where Are Infragravity Waves Important?

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About