Thermal, sensorial, and mechanical characterization of hemp woven crepe fabrics; investigating conventional variants for modern applications

Abstract

Crepe weave fabrics, known for their pebbly or crinkled (rough) surface, are widely used in clothing and bedding applications. Crinkled appearance for crepe weave can be achieved by different interlacement patterns. Generally, six methods/interlacement patterns are commercially used for fabricating crepe woven fabrics. However, there isn’t any significant study reporting clothing comfort and mechanical attributes of crepe variants. In this study, crepe fabrics were developed by these six methods i.e., Base sateen (BS), Reversing method (R), Superimpose (SI), Subset (SS), Quarter turn (QT), and Plain base (P) methods. The yarn linear density, fabric density, and other fabric parameters were kept the same to determine the best development method for fabricating crepe woven fabric having higher thermal, sensorial, and mechanical properties. Characterization data revealed that each crepe variation possesses unique structural and physical parameters making performance differences i.e., the BS specimen exhibited the highest air permeability owing to higher porosity, the R specimen had superior Overall moisture management capability (OMMC) index due to compact yarn linkage, and the SS specimen showed best thermal conductivity performance due to its sophisticated crinkled appearance. Among mechanical attributes QT exhibited higher tensile and puncture strengths due to its compact structure with higher interlacements however, sateen interlacement governing yarn slippage made the tear strength higher for the BS specimen.