Three-dimensional modelling of wave-induced current from the surf zone to the inner shelf

Michaud, Héloïse; Marsaleix, Patrick; Leredde, Yann; Estournel, Claude; Bourrin, François; Lyard, Florent; Mayet, Clément; Ardhuin, Fabrice

doi:10.5194/os-8-657-2012

Cited by 58 publications

(35 citation statements)

References 79 publications

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“…Bennis et al [2011] confirmed the ability of A08 formulation to provide the vertical structure of the flow by numerical modeling of an adiabatic configuration. Michaud et al [2012] further showed the consistency of the solution obtained from A08 formulation with results from Haas and Warner [2009] and Uchiyama et al [2010] in the case of obliquely incident waves breaking on a plane beach. Model results were further applied to a realistic configuration on the French Mediterranean coast.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…WWIII has been widely validated at global and regional scales [e.g., Tolman, 2002;Ardhuin et al, 2008aArdhuin et al, , 2010, and more recently in nearshore areas [e.g., Filipot and Michaud et al, 2012;Ardhuin et al, 2012]. The model solves the spectral balance equation for the wave action density N, with source terms S in , S nl , S oc , and S bot for wind input, nonlinear four-waves interactions, wave breaking dissipation and bottom friction dissipation, respectively.…”

Section: Wave Model Implementationmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Effects of waves on coastal water dispersion in a small estuarine bay

et al. 2014

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[1] A three-dimensional wave-current model is used to investigate wave-induced circulations in a small estuarine bay and its impact on freshwater exchanges with the inner shelf, related to stratified river plume dispersion. Modeled salinity fields exhibit a lower salinity surface layer due to river outflows, with typical depth of 1 m inside the bay. The asymmetric wave forcing on the bay circulation, related to the local bathymetry, significantly impacts the river plumes. It is found that the transport initiated in the surf zone by the longshore current can oppose and thus reduce the primary outflow of freshwater through the bay inlets. Using the model to examine a high river runoff event occurring during a high-energy wave episode, waves are found to induce a 24 h delay in freshwater evacuation. At the end of the runoff event, waves have reduced the freshwater flux to the ocean by a factor 5, and the total freshwater volume inside the bay is increased by 40%. According to the model, and for this event, the effect of the surf zone current on the bay flushing is larger than that of the wind. The freshwater balance is sensitive to incident wave conditions. Maximum freshwater retention is found for intermediate offshore wave heights 1 m < H s < 2 m. For higher-energy waves, the increase in the longshore current reduces the retention, which is two times lower for H s 5 4 m than for H s 5 2 m.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Wave Model Implementationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of waves on coastal water dispersion in a small estuarine bay

et al. 2014

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“…Wave-current interaction has been a topic of many studies recently (Ardhuin et al, 2008;Mellor, 2003Mellor, , 2008Mellor, , 2011Kumar et al, 2012;Michaud et al, 2012;Zodiatis et al, 2015). Mellor (2003Mellor ( , 2005Mellor ( , 2008 extended the radiation stress formulation based on the linear wave theory of Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1964).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Coupling of wave and circulation models in coastal–ocean predicting systems: a case study for the German Bight

Staneva¹,

Wahle²,

Günther³

et al. 2016

Ocean Sci.

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Abstract. This study addresses the impact of coupling between wave and circulation models on the quality of coastal ocean predicting systems. This is exemplified for the German Bight and its coastal area known as the Wadden Sea. The latter is the area between the barrier islands and the coast. This topic reflects the increased interest in operational oceanography to reduce prediction errors of state estimates at coastal scales, which in many cases are due to unresolved non-linear feedback between strong currents and wind waves. In this study we present analysis of wave and hydrographic observations, as well as results of numerical simulations. A nestedgrid modelling system is used to produce reliable nowcasts and short-term forecasts of ocean state variables, including waves and hydrodynamics. The database includes ADCP observations and continuous measurements from data stations. The individual and combined effects of wind, waves and tidal forcing are quantified. The performance of the forecast system is illustrated for the cases of several extreme events. The combined role of wave effects on coastal circulation and sea level are investigated by considering the wavedependent stress and wave breaking parameterization. Also the response, which the circulation exerts on the waves, is tested for the coastal areas. The improved skill of the coupled forecasts compared to the non-coupled ones, in particular during extreme events, justifies the further enhancements of coastal operational systems by including wave effects in circulation models.

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“…The comparison of both methods by Moghimi et al (2013) showed that the results are similar for longshore circulations, but radiation stress enhanced offshore-directed transport in wave shoaling regions. Many other studies addressed the role of the interaction between wind waves and circulation in the model simulations (Michaud et al, 2012;Barbariol et al 2013;Brown et al, 2011;Katsafados et al, 2016;Bolaños et al, 2011Bolaños et al, , 2014Röhrs et al, 2012).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal flooding: impact of waves on storm surge during extremes – a case study for the German Bight

Staneva¹,

Wahle²,

Koch³

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. This study addresses the impact of wind, waves, tidal forcing and baroclinicity on the sea level of the German Bight during extreme storm events. The role of wave-induced processes, tides and baroclinicity is quantified, and the results are compared with in situ measurements and satellite data. A coupled high-resolution modelling system is used to simulate wind waves, the water level and the three-dimensional hydrodynamics. The models used are the wave model WAM and the circulation model GETM. The two-way coupling is performed via the OASIS3-MCT coupler. The effects of wind waves on sea level variability are studied, accounting for wave-dependent stress, wave-breaking parameterization and wave-induced effects on vertical mixing. The analyses of the coupled model results reveal a closer match with observations than for the stand-alone circulation model, especially during the extreme storm Xaver in December 2013. The predicted surge of the coupled model is significantly enhanced during extreme storm events when considering wavecurrent interaction processes. This wave-dependent approach yields a contribution of more than 30 % in some coastal areas during extreme storm events. The contribution of a fully three-dimensional model compared with a two-dimensional barotropic model showed up to 20 % differences in the water level of the coastal areas of the German Bight during Xaver. The improved skill resulting from the new developments justifies further use of the coupled-wave and three-dimensional circulation models in coastal flooding predictions.

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Three-dimensional modelling of wave-induced current from the surf zone to the inner shelf

Cited by 58 publications

References 79 publications

Effects of waves on coastal water dispersion in a small estuarine bay

Effects of waves on coastal water dispersion in a small estuarine bay

Coupling of wave and circulation models in coastal–ocean predicting systems: a case study for the German Bight

Coastal flooding: impact of waves on storm surge during extremes – a case study for the German Bight

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