Topical peptides as cosmeceuticals

Abstract

Peptides are known to have diverse biological roles, most prominently as signaling/regulatory molecules in a broad variety of physiological processes including defense, immunity, stress, growth, homeostasis and reproduction. These aspects have been used in the field of dermatology and cosmetology to produce short, stable and synthetic peptides for extracellular matrix synthesis, pigmentation, innate immunity and inflammation. The evolution of peptides over the century, which started with the discovery of penicillin, has now extended to their usage as cosmeceuticals in recent years. Cosmeceutical peptides may act as signal modulators of the extracellular matrix component, as structural peptides, carrier peptides and neurotransmitter function modulators. Transdermal delivery of peptides can be made more effective by penetration enhancers, chemical modification or encapsulation of peptides. The advantages of using peptides as cosmeceuticals include their involvement in many physiological functions of the skin, their selectivity, their lack of immunogenicity and absence of premarket regulatory requirements for their use. However, there are disadvantages: clinical evidence for efficacy is often weak, absorption may be poor due to low lipophilicity, high molecular weight and binding to other ingredients, and prices can be quite high.

Cell Penetrating Peptide as a High Safety Anti-Inflammation Ingredient for Cosmetic Applications

“…Since 2000 the application of peptides in cosmeceutical products has rapidly increased, and this trend has sped up research and knowledge of physiological properties of peptides. Now, researchers have identified peptide sequences for penetration into skin layers or different cosmetic activities (e.g., anti-ageing, antioxidant, whitening) [2]. The commercial potential for these bio-functional peptides is high, especially for peptides with excellent stability and no toxicity.…”

“…Peptides, polymers composed of amino acids, are known to possess versatile biological functions such as promoting cell proliferation, migration, inflammation/anti-inflammation, angiogenesis, and melanogenesis [1], which causes numerous physiological procedures in human body [2]. The first synthetic peptide incorporated into skin care products in the late 80s was copper glycine-histidine-lysine (Cu-GHK) generated by Pickard in 1973 [3].…”

Efficacy of Postbiotics in a PRP-Like Cosmetic Product for the Treatment of Alopecia Area Celsi: A Randomized Double-Blinded Parallel-Group Study

“…Platelet growth factors can interact with both dermal papilla cells and cells from the bulge area, with the effect of activating the proliferative phase of the hair [31][32][33][34][35].…”

Synthesis, experimental andin silicostudies ofN-fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl-O-tert-butyl-N-methyltyrosine, coupled with CSD data: a survey of interactions in the crystal structures of Fmoc–amino acids

“…They have become a unique class of pharmaceuticals with distinct biotherapeutic features (Lee et al, 2019). The progress in the field is reflected by the growing number of peptide drugs approved and the development of cosmeceuticals, which deliver a biological activity in support of cosmetic action (Henninot et al, 2018;Pai et al, 2017;Bojarska et al, 2018Bojarska et al, , 2019a. Short peptides play a crucial role in the metabolism of living cells, with special emphasis directed towards antioxidant, antibacterial, antitumour, anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities.…”